The crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is a beloved ornamental shrub or small tree known for its extended summer bloom and attractive exfoliating bark. Moving an established specimen requires careful planning and execution to minimize stress on the plant’s root system. Following a precise, step-by-step procedure is the most effective way to ensure the crepe myrtle successfully re-establishes itself.
Planning the Transplant (Timing and Site Selection)
The most successful transplants occur during the crepe myrtle’s dormant season, which typically runs from late fall through late winter or very early spring before new buds swell. Moving the plant when its metabolic activity is lowest minimizes the shock caused by root loss. This timing allows the plant to focus its limited energy on developing new root growth before the demands of spring leaf-out and summer flowering begin.
Selecting the new location is important for the long-term health of the crepe myrtle. This species thrives in full sun, requiring a minimum of six hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight daily to ensure abundant flowering. The soil should be well-draining, as crepe myrtles do not tolerate soggy conditions. Allow adequate space for the plant to reach its mature size without crowding.
Preparation should begin several days in advance with deep watering of the original location. Saturating the soil hydrates the tissues and helps the root ball hold its shape during digging. A light pruning of the canopy can also reduce the overall surface area of the foliage, lowering the amount of water the compromised root system will need to supply after the move.
Executing the Move (Preparing the Root Ball and Removal)
The size of the root ball is the primary factor determining the transplant’s success, as it must contain enough feeder roots to support the plant. A general guideline is to dig a root ball diameter of approximately eight inches for every one inch of trunk caliper, measured six inches above the soil line. For example, a plant with a two-inch trunk diameter would require a sixteen-inch wide root ball.
Use a sharp spade or shovel to cut cleanly around the perimeter of the planned root ball, severing the peripheral roots with minimal tearing. Work your way around the circle, pushing the spade straight down to create a defined edge before undercutting the ball. Once the perimeter is severed, carefully rock the plant and use the spade to cut the roots beneath the ball, aiming for a depth roughly half the diameter of the ball. The goal is to lift the root mass intact, minimizing disturbance to the delicate feeder roots within the soil mass.
Immediately after freeing the root ball, wrap it securely in burlap or a thick tarp to prevent the soil from crumbling during transport. Keeping the soil mass together is critical because loss of soil will damage the fine root hairs responsible for water and nutrient absorption. The wrapped root ball should be moved promptly to the prepared new location, ensuring it remains moist throughout the brief transition period.
Replanting and Ensuring Establishment
The new planting hole should be two to three times wider than the diameter of the root ball but the same depth. Creating a wide hole allows the roots to easily grow into the surrounding, uncompacted soil, encouraging rapid establishment. The plant must be positioned so the top of the root ball and the root flare—where the trunk widens at the base—sit level with or slightly above the surrounding grade. Planting too deeply is a common error that can lead to trunk rot and plant failure.
Carefully remove the wrapping material from the root ball once the crepe myrtle is centered in the hole. Backfill the hole using the original native soil, avoiding the use of excessive amendments, which can discourage roots from venturing into the surrounding landscape. As you backfill, use water to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets that can dry out the roots.
The first year is a vulnerable period, and consistent aftercare is required for the plant to fully establish. Apply a two-to-three-inch layer of organic mulch over the root zone, keeping it several inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture buildup and disease. Establish a regular watering schedule, focusing on deep, infrequent applications to encourage the development of a resilient root system.