Stripping grass, often called sod removal, involves completely removing the existing turf layer and shallow root structure from a specific area. This process is the foundational step for transforming a lawn into a new landscape design. Homeowners typically undertake this project to reduce water consumption, as turfgrass demands significantly more irrigation than many drought-tolerant alternatives. Removal is also necessary when planning to install hardscaping, such as patios or walkways, or when creating new planting beds.
Site Assessment and Pre-Removal Planning
Before any physical work begins, safety must be the first consideration, starting with underground utility identification. The national “Call 811” service should be contacted a few business days before digging to request that utility companies mark the approximate location of buried lines. Striking a gas line, electric cable, or water pipe can result in severe injury, costly repairs, or service interruptions. Once utility lines are marked, all digging within a 30-inch buffer zone, known as the “tolerance zone,” must be done carefully by hand.
The next planning step involves assessing the existing turf and soil condition, which informs the most efficient removal method. Grasses with deep, aggressive rhizomes, like Bermuda grass, are difficult to remove completely with mechanical methods alone and may require smothering techniques. For physical removal, the soil should be lightly moist, not waterlogged, allowing the sod cutter blade to slice cleanly through the roots. Finally, the boundaries of the area to be stripped should be clearly marked with landscape paint or string.
Immediate Removal Using Mechanical Methods
For projects requiring immediate results, mechanical removal methods offer the fastest solution by physically separating the turf from the underlying soil. The most efficient tool for large areas is a motorized, walk-behind sod cutter, which is easily rented from equipment centers. This machine uses a vibrating blade to slice horizontally beneath the turf, cutting the grass into manageable strips. Operators typically set the blade depth between 1.5 and 3 inches to ensure the entire root crown is removed while minimizing topsoil loss.
Operating the sod cutter involves engaging the blade and steering the machine along a straight path, often requiring two passes for complete coverage. After the strips are cut, they can be rolled up like carpet sections for easier handling. For smaller areas or manual removal, a flat-bladed spade is used. This process requires slicing the turf into small, square sections, then pushing the blade horizontally under the roots to lift the pieces.
Passive Grass Removal Techniques
Passive methods rely on natural processes to kill the existing turf over time, often improving the soil structure as a secondary benefit.
Solarization
One effective technique is solarization, which uses the sun’s heat to kill the grass and sterilize the top layer of soil. This process requires covering the area with clear, UV-resistant plastic sheeting (1 to 6 mil thick) during the hottest months. The clear plastic creates a greenhouse effect, trapping solar radiation and raising the soil temperature to lethal levels (110°F to 140°F), which kills weed seeds and pathogens.
For solarization to be successful, the soil should be tilled and watered deeply before the plastic is laid down, as moist soil conducts heat more efficiently. The edges of the plastic must be sealed tightly with soil or heavy materials to prevent heat loss and keep the sheeting in place. Depending on the climate, this process requires a minimum commitment of four to six weeks in warm regions, extending up to 10 weeks in cooler climates.
Sheet Mulching
Alternatively, sheet mulching, sometimes called lasagna gardening, is a slower but beneficial method that smothers the grass while simultaneously building soil fertility. This technique begins by laying a weed-suppressing barrier, typically a thick layer of cardboard or 10 to 15 sheets of non-glossy newspaper, directly over the mown turf. The barrier functions by blocking all sunlight, halting photosynthesis and causing the grass to die.
The cardboard or newspaper barrier should be thoroughly saturated with water and overlapped by at least six inches at the seams to prevent grass from growing through the gaps. This initial layer is then covered with four to six inches of organic material, such as compost, straw, or wood chips. Over a period of six to eight weeks, the grass dies, and beneficial soil organisms break down the layers, incorporating rich material into the existing soil.
Herbicide Application
A final option is the application of a non-selective systemic herbicide, such as a product containing glyphosate. The herbicide is absorbed by the foliage and translocated to the root system to kill the entire plant. This method is particularly useful for tenacious perennial grasses like Bermuda grass, which often regrow after mechanical removal. For effective control, the herbicide is typically applied to actively growing grass.
A second application may be necessary 10 to 14 days later to eliminate any surviving runners or missed spots. Because these systemic products can take up to two weeks to fully kill the plant, all label instructions regarding personal protective equipment and waiting periods before disturbing the soil must be strictly followed.
Soil Conditioning and Post-Stripping Cleanup
Once the turf has been successfully stripped, the focus shifts to managing the removed material and preparing the exposed soil. Sod removed mechanically should be promptly disposed of or repurposed. For example, rolls can be inverted and stacked to decompose into future soil amendments, or used to fill low spots in the yard if the grass side is turned downward and covered with clean soil.
After mechanical removal, the underlying soil is often compacted by the weight of the turf and equipment, necessitating scarification. Tilling the top 2 to 4 inches of soil with a rototiller or garden fork breaks up compaction, introduces air, and promotes better water infiltration. This step is important if the area will be used for a new lawn or garden bed, as roots struggle to penetrate dense soil.
Following the initial loosening, an assessment of soil health is important to determine necessary additions. A simple soil test can guide the addition of amendments like lime or sulfur to adjust the pH, or the incorporation of compost to improve structure and nutrient content. Spreading one to four inches of screened topsoil or high-quality compost and blending it into the loosened native soil creates a nutrient-rich foundation. The final step involves grading the area by raking the surface smooth and ensuring a slight slope away from any structures to facilitate proper drainage.