The Surprise Lily, scientifically known as Lycoris squamigera, is a unique bulbous perennial prized for its sudden, late-summer bloom on bare stalks. This plant is hardy across a wide range, typically thriving in USDA Zones 5 through 10, and often remains in the ground year-round. Gardeners lift bulbs for winter storage primarily in climates below Zone 5 where soil freezes, or when bulbs are overcrowded and require division. Lifting is also necessary when moving the garden bed or preparing for new landscaping, protecting the bulbs during dormancy.
Timing and Technique for Lifting Bulbs
The ideal time to lift Surprise Lily bulbs is when the plant enters its natural dormant phase. This occurs in late spring or early summer after the strap-like leaves have yellowed and died back completely, or after the flowers fade in late summer. Waiting for the foliage to die naturally ensures the bulb has stored the maximum energy needed to sustain it through winter and the next bloom cycle.
Use a garden fork instead of a shovel to minimize damage when lifting. Carefully insert the fork several inches away from the plant clump, digging widely in a circular motion. Gently pry the cluster of bulbs and soil upward, taking care not to sever the basal plate where the roots originate. Injury to the bulb’s outer layer can create an entry point for rot-causing pathogens during storage.
Curing and Preparing Bulbs for Dormancy
Once lifted, bulbs must undergo a curing process to harden their protective outer layers. Curing involves drying the bulbs in a warm, shaded, and well-ventilated location for three to seven days. This period allows excess surface moisture to evaporate, which significantly reduces the chance of fungal diseases developing during winter. A garage or shed with good airflow, where temperatures hover around 60 to 70°F, provides a suitable environment.
After curing, gently brush off any large clumps of soil, avoiding washing which reintroduces moisture. The long, dry roots can be trimmed back, but the basal plate should remain undisturbed. Inspect each bulb for signs of damage, such as cuts, soft spots, mold, or discoloration. Any diseased bulbs exhibiting physical trauma should be discarded to prevent contamination of the healthy stock during storage.
Selecting the Optimal Winter Storage Conditions
The environment selected for winter storage must be cool, dark, and maintained at a consistent temperature to keep the bulbs dormant. The ideal temperature range for Lycoris squamigera storage is between 40 and 55°F (4 to 13°C), which is cool enough to maintain dormancy without risking freezing. A basement, root cellar, or unheated garage that stays above freezing provides the stable conditions necessary for successful overwintering.
To protect the bulbs from drying out and touching one another, they should be layered within a suitable storage medium. The medium should be dry and porous to allow for air circulation and prevent moisture accumulation. Suitable materials include:
- Peat moss
- Dry sand
- Vermiculite
- Shredded newspaper
Use an optimal container that allows for ventilation, such as a perforated cardboard box, a wooden crate, or a mesh bag, avoiding airtight plastic containers. Place a layer of the chosen medium at the bottom, then arrange the bulbs so they are not in direct contact with each other or the container walls. Cover the bulbs with another layer of medium, repeating until all bulbs are completely covered. Throughout the winter, check the stored bulbs periodically for signs of shriveling or rot, removing any compromised individuals to safeguard the stock.
Reintroduction to the Garden in Spring
The end of winter storage is timed for spring, after the threat of the last hard frost has passed and the soil is workable. Planting too early risks damage from late cold snaps, while waiting too long can interrupt their natural growing cycle. The goal is to return the bulbs to the soil just as they are ready to break dormancy and begin forming new roots.
Surprise Lily bulbs should be planted with their necks just below the soil surface, requiring a depth of five to six inches for the main bulb body. In extremely cold climates or sandy soil, planting slightly deeper, up to eight or twelve inches, provides additional protection. Space the bulbs six to ten inches apart to allow room for growth and the eventual production of offsets. After planting, water the area lightly to settle the soil, and then water sparingly until new foliage appears, signaling the official end of their winter rest.