Saving garlic bulbs for the next planting cycle is known as using seed garlic. These reserved bulbs must remain dormant and viable from a summer harvest until the fall planting season. Maintaining the bulb’s integrity depends on precise post-harvest handling and storage conditions. Successful storage ensures the cloves retain the necessary energy and moisture to produce a robust crop, preventing premature sprouting or decay before planting.
Preparing Garlic for Long-Term Storage
Successful storage begins immediately after harvest with curing. Curing involves drying the entire plant—bulb, roots, and leaves—in a shaded, warm, and highly ventilated area for three to six weeks. This process solidifies the outer wrappers, creating a protective barrier that seals the bulb and prevents the entry of rot-causing pathogens during storage.
Curing is complete when the skins are fully dry and crispy, and the neck of the stalk is constricted. Trim the roots and dried tops, leaving a short stub of the stem above the bulb. Gently brush off any excess soil rather than washing the bulbs, as the protective outer wrappers must remain intact and dry.
Selecting the best bulbs for planting stock influences the next harvest. Choose only the largest, healthiest, and unblemished bulbs for seed garlic, as planting smaller bulbs perpetuates smaller harvests. Immediately segregate any bulbs showing signs of bruising, soft spots, or torn wrappers for kitchen use, preventing the spread of potential diseases to the planting stock.
Essential Environmental Conditions
The primary goal of storing seed garlic is to keep the bulbs in a state of dormancy until planting. This requires a careful balance of temperature and humidity, since incorrect conditions can prematurely trigger growth or encourage decomposition. The ideal storage temperature is 50°F (10°C), a range that slows the bulb’s metabolic rate without initiating the cold-induced signal for sprouting.
Storing garlic above 65°F (18°C) causes bulbs to deteriorate quickly and encourages premature sprouting, depleting the energy reserves needed for planting. Conversely, storing bulbs in the chilling range of 40°F to 50°F (3°C to 10°C) rapidly breaks dormancy, often resulting in premature growth or malformed bulbs when planted.
Humidity control is equally important, with 65% to 70% relative humidity being optimal for seed stock. If the air is too dry, the cloves will desiccate and shrivel, becoming non-viable for planting. Excessive humidity, particularly above 70%, creates an environment where storage fungi like Penicillium and Aspergillus thrive, leading to mold and rot.
Practical Storage Techniques
Achieving the correct environmental conditions relies on the physical storage methods employed. The container must ensure constant air circulation around every bulb to prevent moisture accumulation, which is the leading cause of fungal growth. Breathable materials, such as mesh bags, brown paper bags, or slatted wooden crates, facilitate this airflow.
Avoid using sealed containers, such as plastic bags or airtight jars, as these trap moisture released by the bulbs, creating a humid microclimate that fosters mold. For large quantities, store bulbs in single or shallow layers within crates or baskets, rather than deep piles, to prevent crushing and restricting ventilation.
Traditional methods like braiding the dried tops of softneck varieties allow the rope to be hung, maximizing air exposure. Hardneck varieties, which do not braid easily, can be hung in bunches or placed loosely in netted bags. Bulbs must be kept whole, as separating them into individual cloves removes the protective outer wrappers and reduces storage life.
Recognizing Storage Failure
Regularly monitoring the stored seed garlic is necessary to catch and address problems before they affect the stock. One common sign of failure is premature sprouting, which manifests as green shoots emerging from the bulb’s neck. This usually happens when the storage temperature is too warm or when the bulbs have been exposed to temperature fluctuations that mimic the end of winter.
Another indicator of poor storage is the presence of mold or rot, which appears as soft, spongy spots or a blue-green powdery growth, typically caused by Penicillium mold. This decomposition results directly from stagnant air and excessively high humidity, which allow fungal pathogens to colonize the bulb.
Stored bulbs should be checked monthly for deterioration, using touch to confirm firmness. Immediately remove any bulb that feels soft, has visible mold, or has begun to sprout to prevent the spread of fungal spores. While slightly sprouted bulbs can still be planted, those showing signs of mold or rot must be discarded, as planting diseased cloves introduces pathogens into the garden soil.