Hyacinths are spring-flowering bulbs valued for their intense fragrance and vibrant, densely packed flower spikes. While garden-planted hyacinths often remain in the soil year-round, bulbs grown in containers or warm climates require lifting and storage. Proper storage replicates the bulb’s natural dormant period, ensuring it retains the energy needed to produce blooms the following season. This process is crucial for bulbs forced indoors, as they need time to replenish depleted energy reserves.
Post-Flowering Management
As soon as the flowers begin to wilt and fade, the first step is deadheading. Carefully remove the spent flower spike from the stem, cutting it low to the bulb without damaging the surrounding foliage. Removing the fading flower prevents the plant from diverting energy into producing seeds, allowing it to focus entirely on strengthening the bulb for the next year’s bloom.
The leaves must be left completely intact, even as they begin to look less appealing. This green foliage acts as the plant’s food factory, utilizing photosynthesis to convert sunlight into carbohydrates. These stored sugars are transported into the bulb, recharging its energy supply for the upcoming dormant period.
Continue to provide moderate water and sunlight during this crucial energy-storage phase. Stop watering completely only when the leaves have fully yellowed and naturally withered, a process that typically takes six to eight weeks after the bloom fades. The complete yellowing of the foliage signals that the bulb has absorbed all available nutrients and is ready to enter deep dormancy.
Lifting and Curing the Bulbs
The optimal time to remove the bulbs from the soil is once the foliage is entirely dead and brittle. For outdoor bulbs, this usually occurs in late spring or early summer when the ground is not overly saturated. Use a garden fork or trowel to gently loosen the soil around the bulb, digging far enough away to avoid piercing or damaging it.
Once lifted, clean the bulbs by carefully brushing off any large clumps of soil. Avoid washing them with water, as excess moisture increases the risk of fungal diseases and rot during storage. Trim away any dead or shriveled roots and the dried foliage, leaving only the main, firm bulb.
After cleaning, the bulbs must undergo curing. Lay the bulbs out in a single layer in a warm, dark, and well-ventilated location. A temperature range between 70°F and 80°F for two to three weeks is recommended for adequate curing. This process dries and hardens the bulb’s outer protective layer, preparing it for long-term storage.
Maintaining Optimal Dormancy Storage
After the curing period is complete and the outer layer feels papery and dry, the bulbs are ready for long-term storage until the fall replanting season. The environment for this dormancy must be consistently cool, dry, and dark to mimic winter conditions. A stable temperature range of 50°F to 65°F is ideal for maintaining proper dormancy without encouraging premature sprouting.
The storage medium must allow for continuous airflow to prevent the buildup of moisture that leads to mold or rot. Suitable options include placing the bulbs in breathable containers:
- Mesh bags.
- Old stockings.
- Perforated paper bags.
You can also layer the bulbs within a completely dry medium like peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust.
It is important to check the bulbs occasionally for any signs of disease, such as soft spots or fungal growth, and remove any affected bulbs immediately to prevent spread. The storage area must also be protected from rodents, as they are attracted to the nutrient content of flower bulbs. Furthermore, keep the stored bulbs away from ripening fruits, such as apples, since they release ethylene gas which can inhibit the formation of next year’s flower bud.