Cyclamen plants, prized for their winter blooms, enter a natural period of rest known as dormancy as temperatures rise and light levels increase in late spring or early summer. This rest period is a survival mechanism that mimics their native Mediterranean habitat, where the plant conserves energy during the hot, dry summer months. The species grows from a fleshy, underground structure called a corm, which is often mistakenly referred to as a bulb or tuber. Proper storage is necessary to protect the corm from both desiccation and rot, allowing it to rejuvenate its energy reserves for reawakening and blooming again in the cooler months. This guided dormancy is the single most important factor for successfully maintaining a perennial cyclamen plant.
Preparing the Cyclamen Corm for Storage
The transition into dormancy begins with recognizing the plant’s natural signals, indicated by the yellowing and subsequent dying back of the leaves after the flowering season concludes. As soon as you notice this foliar decline, immediately begin reducing the plant’s water supply to initiate the drying process. Overwatering during this phase is the primary cause of corm rot, which is fatal to the plant.
Once the foliage has completely withered, the stems should be cleanly removed by gently twisting and pulling them away from the corm, rather than cutting them. This avoids leaving behind stubs that could harbor disease. If the plant was potted, carefully lift the corm from the soil and gently brush away any excess soil, being careful not to damage the exterior.
After cleaning, the corm should be placed in a cool, well-ventilated area for an initial drying period of at least 24 hours. This allows the exterior to harden and any surface moisture to evaporate. This curing process is important for preventing fungal infection during long-term storage, as the corm is sensitive to humidity. A healthy corm should feel firm and plump before being placed into its storage medium.
Maintaining the Dormant Storage Environment
The goal of the dormant storage environment is to provide sustained cool, dry conditions that prevent the corm from rotting or completely drying out. The ideal temperature range for successful dormancy is between 40 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit (4–13 degrees Celsius). Temperatures above this range can prematurely end dormancy, while freezing temperatures will destroy the corm.
To prevent desiccation, the corm should be stored in a dry, loose medium such as vermiculite, dry peat moss, or sawdust. This medium provides insulation and a buffer against temperature fluctuations while minimizing moisture contact. Place the corm, surrounded by the medium, into a container that allows for air circulation, such as a paper bag or a ventilated box. Avoid sealing it in plastic, which traps humidity and encourages rot.
A dark, cool location, like an unheated basement, a garage that stays above freezing, or a cool closet, works well for placement. The corm should be checked routinely throughout the two-to-three-month storage period for signs of trouble. Look for discoloration, mold, or softness, which indicates fungal rot, or excessive shriveling, which means the corm is drying out. If the corm appears too dry, a very light misting of the storage medium may be necessary, but this must be done sparingly.
Waking the Corm and Resuming Growth
The corm is ready to be reawakened and brought out of storage in late summer or early fall, before the temperatures drop significantly. Once removed from storage, discard the old storage medium and inspect the corm one last time, ensuring it remains firm and healthy. Any parts that feel soft or show signs of decay should be trimmed away with a clean tool.
To resume growth, the corm should be repotted into a container using fresh, well-draining potting mix, ideally one rich in organic matter. The corm should be positioned so that its crown, the top surface from which the leaves will sprout, is just barely visible above the soil line. Planting the corm too deeply is a common mistake that can lead to crown rot once watering resumes.
Begin the reawakening process by moving the newly potted corm to a location that receives bright, indirect light and remains relatively cool, with daytime temperatures ideally no higher than 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius). Start watering very lightly, only moistening the soil around the edges of the pot to signal the end of dormancy. As soon as new leaf growth becomes visible, you can gradually increase the watering frequency to a regular schedule, and the corm will prepare for its winter blooming season.