The large, striking flowers commonly known as Amaryllis are actually hybrids of the genus Hippeastrum, a perennial bulb native to the tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas. Getting these magnificent bulbs to rebloom year after year requires mimicking their natural cycle, which includes a period of winter dormancy. This resting phase allows the bulb to regenerate the energy reserves required to form new flower buds, ensuring a spectacular display for the next season.
Summer Care for Bulb Health
The period following the initial bloom is when the bulb actively stores the energy needed for next year’s flowers. After the blooms fade, cut the spent flower stalk about an inch above the bulb, but keep the green foliage intact. The leaves are the plant’s food factories, producing and storing carbohydrates in the bulb.
Once the danger of frost has passed, move the potted bulb outdoors to a location receiving full sun or bright indirect light for at least six hours daily. Full sun is tolerated once the plant is gradually acclimated, but partial shade prevents scorching in hot climates. Water the bulb regularly throughout the summer, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry out slightly between waterings.
Consistent fertilization is necessary during this growth period to maximize bulb size and health. Apply a high-phosphorus fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10 or 10-10-10) monthly to encourage flower bud development inside the bulb. This focus on phosphorus and potassium over nitrogen supports underground growth and flower formation. The goal is a large, firm bulb filled with stored energy.
Preparing the Bulb for Dormancy
Dormancy preparation should begin in late August or early September, approximately eight to ten weeks before the desired rebloom date. The first and most important step is to completely cease watering the plant. This lack of moisture signals to the bulb that its growing season is over.
Ceasing water will cause the healthy green foliage to naturally yellow and wither over several weeks. Do not rush this process, as the dying leaves continue to transfer remaining nutrients back into the bulb. Once the leaves are completely yellow or brown and dry, they can be trimmed off.
Cut the dead leaves approximately one to two inches above the neck of the bulb, avoiding damage to the bulb itself. The bulb can be stored in its pot or gently lifted from the soil to be stored bare root. If choosing the bare root method, clean the bulb of any remaining soil and dead roots before storage.
Ideal Winter Storage Conditions
The dormancy period requires a cool, dark, and dry environment to successfully trigger the next bloom cycle. The ideal storage temperature range is consistently between 40 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit (4 to 13 degrees Celsius). Temperatures above this range may prevent the necessary rest period, while temperatures below 35 degrees Fahrenheit risk freezing and damaging the bulb.
Suitable storage locations include an unheated basement, a cool closet, or a dark utility room that maintains a stable temperature. A refrigerator crisper drawer can also be used, but keep it away from fruit. Common fruits, especially apples, release ethylene gas, which can sterilize the bulb and prevent flowering.
If storing the bulb bare root, it should be wrapped loosely in newspaper, placed in a paper bag, or kept in a mesh sack to ensure adequate air circulation. If storing in the pot, ensure the soil is completely dry and lay the pot on its side to prevent accidental watering. Check the dormant bulb every few weeks for signs of rot, mold, or premature sprouting.
Reawakening and Restarting Growth
Remove the bulb from storage approximately eight to ten weeks before the desired flowering date to time the next bloom. If the bulb was stored bare root, repot it in fresh, well-draining potting mix, ensuring the top third remains exposed above the soil line.
Place the newly potted bulb in a bright, warm location, with temperatures consistently between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. This warmth stimulates the bulb to break dormancy. Initial watering should be very light to prevent rot, keeping the soil barely moist until the first signs of growth appear.
Once growth is visible, regular watering can resume, ensuring the soil is kept moist but not soggy. The flower stalk, or scape, will typically emerge from the bulb before the leaves. Providing this necessary rest period ensures the Hippeastrum bulb has the energy reserves to produce its characteristic large, impressive winter blooms.