Small, shallow holes scattered across a lawn are typically the work of squirrels. Their instinctive digging behaviors conflict directly with the desire for an unblemished yard. Successfully stopping this requires understanding the animals’ motivations and implementing humane strategies that make the area less appealing. This approach focuses on deterrence, using physical modifications and sensory discouragement to protect the soil.
Why Squirrels Target Lawns
Squirrels dig in lawns for two primary reasons related to survival: food storage and foraging for insects. The most visible damage occurs in the fall when they engage in caching, burying nuts and seeds individually for later retrieval. These caches, usually only an inch or two deep, are small pits created to conceal winter sustenance like acorns, walnuts, or sunflower seeds.
Foraging is the second motivation, particularly when squirrels search for protein-rich food sources beneath the grass surface. They actively seek out insect larvae, most commonly white grubs, which feed on grass roots just below the soil line. A grub infestation can turn a lawn into a feeding ground, leading to numerous small holes as the squirrels dig shallowly to locate the larvae.
Physical Barriers to Prevent Digging
Physical barriers are effective ways to prevent squirrels from accessing vulnerable soil. For newly seeded areas or flower beds, laying lightweight plastic netting or chicken wire over the ground provides a simple obstacle. Securing the perimeter with ground stakes ensures squirrels cannot lift the edges to access the loose soil beneath.
To protect planted bulbs, which squirrels often excavate and consume, a layer of hardware cloth or wire mesh can be buried a few inches above the bulbs before the hole is refilled. Potted plants can be shielded by cutting wire mesh to fit the container’s circumference and placing it over the soil surface. This prevention blocks the digging action, forcing the animal to move to a less protected area.
Scent and Taste Deterrents
Sensory deterrents work by making the lawn taste or smell unappealing to squirrels. Capsaicin, the compound responsible for the heat in chili peppers, is irritating to mammals and forms the basis of many effective repellents. A homemade spray can be created by mixing two tablespoons of cayenne pepper powder with one gallon of water and a few drops of biodegradable dish soap. The dish soap helps the capsaicin adhere to the grass blades and soil surface.
Liquid repellents should be applied in a fine mist to affected areas during dry conditions, ideally in the evening, to ensure maximum adhesion. Since these substances are water-soluble, reapplication is necessary every two to four weeks, or immediately following significant rainfall. Commercial granular repellents, which often contain botanical oils like cinnamon, garlic, or peppermint, provide an alternative for perimeter protection. These granules are sprinkled around the edges of the lawn or garden beds, creating an unpleasant scent barrier that discourages entry.
Changing the Yard Environment
Long-term success relies on eliminating the primary attractions that draw squirrels to the yard. Bird feeders are a major culprit, as spilled seeds and dropped nuts provide an easy food source that encourages caching. Switching to squirrel-proof feeder designs or temporarily removing the feeders will reduce the incentive for them to linger and bury food.
Regularly cleaning up fallen debris, such as acorns, walnuts, and seasonal fruit, removes readily available caching material. Addressing a grub problem is an effective strategy for eliminating the foraging motivation. Applying beneficial nematodes or a grub-specific insecticide to the lawn in the late summer or early fall reduces the population of insect larvae, removing the food source squirrels try to uncover.