Squirrels are determined climbers that seek shelter, warmth, or nesting sites inside human structures, causing significant damage to a home’s roofline, walls, and attic spaces. Their sharp claws allow them to ascend rough surfaces, and their powerful teeth enable them to chew through materials to gain entry. Preventing access requires a multi-faceted strategy focused on excluding them from the structure and eliminating vertical access points. This involves inspection, physical deterrence, landscape management, and, if necessary, humane removal.
Inspecting and Sealing Existing Access Points
Excluding squirrels begins with a detailed inspection of the entire house exterior, focusing on the roofline, fascia, soffits, and foundation. Squirrels exploit small gaps, often widening existing structural weaknesses to create an entry hole. Look for signs of gnawing, which appear as chewed wood or plastic around vents, eaves, and chimney flashing.
Once a hole is identified, verify that all squirrels are out before sealing it completely. A humane technique involves installing a one-way door or exclusion funnel over the primary access point. This device allows animals currently inside to exit the structure but prevents them from re-entering.
After confirming the interior is clear, seal all entry points using durable, chew-proof materials. Squirrels easily defeat plastic, rubber, or light foam sealants, necessitating heavy-duty materials like half-inch galvanized hardware cloth or sheet metal flashing. For small cracks in the foundation or chimney, a concrete patch provides a permanent barrier.
Implementing Physical Climbing Deterrents
Beyond sealing existing holes, install physical deterrents on common vertical pathways squirrels use to climb the structure. Downspouts and utility poles are frequent routes because their surfaces offer adequate traction for a squirrel’s sharp claws. These routes can be blocked by creating a slick, non-grippable surface that the animals cannot ascend.
An effective solution involves wrapping downspouts with smooth sheet metal or PVC sleeves, often called squirrel baffles. This barrier should extend at least five to six feet up from the ground to prevent the squirrel from leaping over it. The smooth surface prevents the animal’s claws from gaining purchase, causing it to slide down.
For utility poles or freestanding posts, a cone-shaped metal baffle installed four to five feet above the ground is the preferred solution. This baffle must be wide enough to prevent the squirrel from reaching around it. It should be placed at least eight horizontal feet from any jumping-off point, such as a nearby fence or tree branch. These barriers create an impassable zone, forcing the animal to abandon its ascent.
Managing Surrounding Landscape and Utility Access
Squirrels frequently use overhanging vegetation as a bridge to bypass ground-level deterrents and jump directly onto the roof or upper levels. To eliminate these “launching pads,” tree branches must be pruned back significantly from the house. A safe distance requires cutting back branches to a minimum of six to ten feet away from the roofline, walls, and fascia.
This distance is necessary because a mature squirrel can achieve impressive horizontal leaps, sometimes covering eight feet or more. Regular trimming is necessary, especially during peak growing seasons, to maintain this buffer zone. Keeping bushes and vines trimmed away from the siding also removes potential cover and climbing access to lower windows and eaves.
Utility lines, such as electrical or communication cables, can serve as aerial highways for squirrels to reach the house. While homeowners cannot alter power lines, some utility companies offer specialized squirrel guards. These guards create a spinning, unstable surface, typically plastic sleeves that rotate when a squirrel attempts to cross, forcing it to lose its footing and fall.
Humane Trapping and Relocation Protocols
When exclusion methods fail, or if a squirrel is established inside the home, humane trapping and removal may be necessary. Live trapping requires a cage trap baited with attractive items like peanut butter, nuts, or sunflower seeds. Place the trap near the entry point or an area of high activity. Check the trap at least twice daily to minimize stress on a captured animal.
Before trapping, homeowners must consult local and state wildlife regulations, as rules regarding the trapping and relocation of nuisance wildlife vary widely. Some jurisdictions prohibit relocation, mandating euthanasia or requiring a licensed professional for removal. Where relocation is permitted, the animal should be moved at least five to ten miles to prevent its immediate return.
If a severe infestation is suspected, especially if a nest of young squirrels is present, contact a professional wildlife control operator. Trapping a mother squirrel and sealing the entry point can result in the young being trapped inside, leading to significant odor and damage as they attempt to chew their way out. Professionals are equipped to handle these complex scenarios, ensuring safe and humane removal.