Groundhogs, commonly known as woodchucks, are large rodents widespread across North America. Their powerful forelimbs and sharp claws make them highly efficient excavators, often leading them to be considered significant landscape pests. These animals construct extensive, multi-chambered burrow systems that can extend up to 50 feet in length and contain multiple entrances. This digging activity often results in property damage, including undermined foundations, damaged utility lines, and hazardous tripping holes. Stopping groundhogs requires a strategic approach focused on exclusion and behavioral deterrence.
Physical Barriers and Exclusion Techniques
The most reliable strategy for protecting specific areas, such as gardens or spaces beneath structures, involves installing physical exclusion barriers. Since groundhogs are motivated diggers, any barrier must extend both above and well below the ground surface. This method is useful for safeguarding vulnerable areas like decks, sheds, or porches, which provide sheltered locations for burrow entrances.
Effective groundhog fencing requires digging a trench 10 to 12 inches deep around the protected area. The fence material should be bent at a 90-degree angle, creating an “L” shape where the bottom portion faces away from the structure. This horizontal flange should extend outward 6 to 12 inches and then be covered with soil. When the groundhog attempts to dig under the vertical fence, it encounters the horizontal barrier.
The mesh used must be sturdy, such as heavy-gauge galvanized hardware cloth or welded wire mesh, with openings no larger than one inch. This size prevents juvenile groundhogs from squeezing through or chewing the wire. Above ground, the vertical fence portion should stand at least three feet high, with the top edge bent outward at a 45-degree angle to prevent climbing.
Beyond perimeter fencing, seal any existing openings under buildings or foundations that could serve as entry points. Vents, gaps around pipes, or damaged skirting should be covered with the same heavy-gauge wire mesh. Before sealing an active burrow, confirm the animal has left by loosely stuffing the entrance with crumpled newspaper for several days.
Habitat Modification and Food Source Removal
Making the property less hospitable reduces the incentive for groundhogs to stay. They prefer environments offering easy foraging and protective cover from predators. Removing dense vegetation, tall weeds, and brush piles reduces the appeal of the yard, as groundhogs use this cover as safe havens.
Eliminating readily available food sources is crucial for discouraging residency. Since groundhogs are primarily herbivores, protect gardens with netting or establish raised beds to limit access. Prompt cleanup of fallen fruits or berries is necessary, as these provide easy meals.
Remove outdoor pet food bowls immediately after feeding, as groundhogs are opportunistic and consume various scraps. While they do not require standing water, ensuring functional drainage can slightly reduce the area’s appeal. Reducing areas of soft, tilled soil may also help, as groundhogs prefer easy digging.
Once a burrow is confirmed inactive and empty, filling it prevents future reuse. Burrows should be filled with a tightly packed mix of soil and gravel or packed with concrete to ensure complete collapse. Simply filling an active burrow is inhumane and may prompt the animal to dig a new exit, often closer to a foundation.
Scent, Taste, and Sensory Deterrents
Scent and taste deterrents aim to make the groundhog’s environment unpleasant, encouraging relocation. Commercial granular repellents often contain sulfur, which mimics predator urine, or capsaicin, which causes irritation. Sulfur compounds trigger an innate fear response, making the area seem dangerous.
Capsaicin irritates the groundhog’s sensitive nasal passages and mucous membranes when they sample treated vegetation. These products must be applied directly around burrow entrances or foraging areas. The effectiveness of most repellents depends on consistent reapplication, especially after heavy rainfall or irrigation.
Rain washes away the active chemical compounds, requiring the deterrent to be refreshed every few days or according to product instructions. Failure to maintain the barrier allows the groundhog to quickly return once the sensation dissipates. Some homeowners use strong-smelling household items as temporary deterrents, such as ammonia-soaked rags placed near burrow entrances.
Other sensory irritants include concentrated garlic or used cat litter, which carries a predator scent. While these methods offer short-term results, they lack the longevity of commercial formulations. Motion-activated sprinklers are also effective sensory deterrents because the sudden spray of water startles the groundhog, causing it to associate the area with an unpleasant event.
Safe and Legal Removal Options
If prevention fails, active removal through live trapping may be necessary. Place large, sturdy cage traps directly in the groundhog’s travel path, often near the burrow entrance, and cover them with brush. Effective bait includes fresh vegetables like cantaloupe, carrots, or apples, placed inside and leading into the trap.
Before attempting to trap or relocate any wildlife, contact local and state wildlife agencies to understand specific laws governing groundhogs. Relocation is often illegal due to the risk of spreading disease, such as rabies, or shifting the problem to a neighbor’s property. Furthermore, released animals often struggle to establish new territory, leading to high stress and mortality.
Due to these legal complexities and the potential for injury, consulting a licensed wildlife control professional is the safest option for removal. These experts are knowledgeable about local regulations and possess the necessary equipment and permits to humanely and legally handle the animal. They can also provide guidance on preventing future infestations.