Armadillos are nocturnal mammals whose primary motivation for entering a yard is a search for food. They rely on an acute sense of smell rather than poor eyesight to locate prey in the soil. Their powerful claws allow them to excavate quickly, leaving behind small, conical holes or larger patches of upturned soil. Stopping the damage requires a multi-pronged approach to eliminate the food incentive and physically block access to the property.
Eliminating the Primary Food Source
The most effective long-term strategy for deterring armadillos involves removing their main dietary attractant: soil-dwelling insects. Armadillos primarily seek out grubs, earthworms, beetles, and other small invertebrates residing just beneath the surface of the lawn. Making your soil less hospitable to these pests encourages the armadillo to move its foraging efforts elsewhere.
Homeowners can choose between biological and chemical methods to treat insect infestations. Biological controls, such as beneficial nematodes, parasitize and kill grub larvae without harming other beneficial insects. Milky spore powder introduces a naturally occurring bacterium that specifically targets Japanese beetle grubs, providing long-lasting control.
Chemical treatments, often containing carbaryl or imidacloprid, also target and eliminate grubs. These insecticides should be applied during recommended periods, typically late summer or early fall, to target the young grub stage. Reducing over-irrigation is also beneficial. Armadillos are drawn to soft, moist soil because it is easier to dig and often indicates a higher concentration of invertebrate life.
Physical Exclusion and Barrier Methods
Physical exclusion requires robust construction methods because armadillos possess an exceptional ability to dig and are not deterred by small obstacles. A simple, above-ground fence will not prevent entry, as they easily tunnel beneath it. To be effective, a barrier must extend both above and below the ground’s surface to fully block their path.
Effective armadillo fencing should use heavy-gauge, galvanized wire mesh, which resists rust and the animals’ powerful claws. The fence material should extend at least 3 feet above ground level to discourage climbing. It must be buried a minimum of 12 to 18 inches deep into the soil, or up to 24 inches for properties with sandy or loose soil.
To prevent burrowing directly alongside the barrier, the buried mesh should be bent outward at a 90-degree angle, creating an underground apron. This horizontal extension acts as a deterrent when the armadillo attempts to dig under the vertical fence line. A similar buried wire barrier must be installed around the perimeter of structures like decks, porches, or sheds, where armadillos often establish burrows for shelter.
Chemical and Sensory Deterrents
Deterrents relying on an armadillo’s sense of smell, taste, or fear are supplementary measures that offer only temporary relief. Armadillos have a highly sensitive olfactory system, which commercial repellents exploit. Many products contain castor oil, which permeates the soil and makes subsurface invertebrates taste foul, discouraging foraging in the treated area.
Homeowners sometimes use strong scents from household items, such as a mix of cayenne pepper and water, or diluted vinegar. These applications require frequent reapplication, especially after rain or irrigation, due to their tendency to wash away quickly. Motion-activated sprinklers provide an alternative sensory deterrent, startling the nocturnal armadillo with a sudden burst of water and loud noise.
Traditional home remedies, such as mothballs, are ineffective for long-term control and can be toxic to pets, children, and the environment. Since armadillos are primarily driven by hunger, removing the food source is more reliable than trying to repel them with unpleasant odors. Sensory deterrents are best used in combination with other, more permanent control methods.
Humane Trapping and Relocation Guidelines
When prevention methods fail, live trapping can be used to physically remove the animal, though it should be considered a last resort. Armadillos are difficult to bait because their diet consists mostly of live, subsurface insects that cannot be easily replicated in a trap. Some success has been reported using live earthworms, mealworms, or spoiled fruit placed inside the trap.
The most effective technique is to place a large cage trap directly in the armadillo’s path. Traps should be positioned along known travel routes, such as fences, foundation edges, or directly over a burrow entrance. Using wooden boards as “wings” to funnel the animal directly into the trap opening greatly increases the probability of a successful capture without relying on bait.
Before trapping, homeowners must check local and state wildlife regulations, as laws regarding the relocation of nuisance wildlife vary significantly. In many jurisdictions, transporting and releasing a trapped armadillo elsewhere is illegal due to the potential for spreading disease or creating a problem for another property owner.
Where relocation is prohibited, the trapped animal must either be humanely euthanized or released back onto the same property. This often makes professional wildlife control a preferred option for many homeowners.