The removal of a tree often leaves behind a stubborn remnant: the stump. This remaining wooden mass frequently pushes out new growth, a phenomenon known as coppicing or suckering. This regrowth occurs because the root system retains significant reserves of stored energy for survival. The tree’s natural response is to send up new shoots to restore its ability to photosynthesize, which can quickly become a persistent landscaping nuisance. Stopping this sprouting requires a strategic approach that targets the living tissues of the remaining root system.
Physical Preparation Before Treatment
Successfully treating a tree stump requires careful physical preparation. Begin by cutting the stump as close to the soil line as possible, ideally leaving a flat surface no more than one or two inches high. This low profile simplifies application and helps conceal the stump while it decays.
The next preparatory step involves scoring the bark around the stump’s perimeter to break the outer protective layer. The most important physical step is drilling deep, wide holes into the stump’s surface to create reservoirs for the killing agent. Use a drill bit, preferably one inch wide, to bore holes approximately eight to twelve inches deep. These holes should be spaced a few inches apart, covering the entire top surface.
Drilling some holes at an angle to intersect with vertical ones improves chemical circulation throughout the woody tissue. The depth and placement of these holes are important because they must penetrate the heartwood and reach the cambium layer. The cambium, located just beneath the bark, and the sapwood are the most active parts of the stump, responsible for transporting water and nutrients. Creating direct pathways ensures the treatment is efficiently translocated down to the roots, where energy reserves are stored. Poor preparation significantly reduces the efficacy of any treatment method.
Chemical Methods for Killing Stumps
The fastest way to prevent sprouting involves applying a concentrated, systemic herbicide. Products containing active ingredients like glyphosate or triclopyr are formulated to translocate throughout the stump’s vascular system and kill the root structure. Application timing is important for maximum absorption, ideally occurring within minutes of the tree being cut down.
For the herbicide to be effective, it must be painted or sprayed directly onto the freshly cut surface and into the prepared drill holes. When treating a large stump, only coat the outer ring of the sapwood and the cambium layer, as this is the living tissue that actively transports the chemical. Treating the entire surface is necessary for smaller stumps, typically those less than four inches in diameter. Concentrating the product on the outer two inches ensures the chemical moves down to the roots before the cut surface dries and seals off the pathways.
Safety precautions must be followed when handling concentrated chemicals. Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment, such as gloves and eye protection, to avoid skin or eye contact. Care must be taken to ensure the herbicide does not contact the surrounding soil or the foliage of nearby desirable plants, as systemic action can cause unintended damage. If the application is delayed by more than a few hours, a triclopyr ester product mixed with an oil-based carrier may be a more effective choice, as it can penetrate drier wood better than a water-soluble glyphosate formula.
Non-Chemical and Decay Acceleration Techniques
Individuals who prefer to avoid strong herbicides can choose alternative, slower methods that suppress growth or accelerate natural decomposition. One straightforward physical method is smothering the stump to block sunlight, which starves the root system by preventing new shoots from photosynthesizing. This technique involves covering the stump with a thick layer of mulch or soil, followed by a dark tarp or plastic sheeting secured around the base. The cover should remain in place for several months to ensure potential sprouts are completely suppressed.
To accelerate the internal decay of the wood, introduce high-nitrogen materials into the drilled holes. Wood-decomposing fungi and bacteria require nitrogen to efficiently break down the dense cellulose and lignin within the stump. Filling the holes with a high-nitrogen fertilizer, or organic materials like manure or blood meal, provides this nutrient boost to the microbes. The addition of water to keep the stump moist helps activate microbial growth and encourages the decay process.
An alternative accelerating agent is Epsom salt, or magnesium sulfate, which can be packed into the drilled holes and moistened. The salt works by drawing moisture out of the wood tissue, causing it to dry out and become brittle over several months. Another approach involves fungal inoculation, where specialized mushroom spawn or plugs are inserted into the stump, directly introducing active decomposers. While non-chemical methods are safer for the immediate environment, they require patience, as the full decay process can take six months to a year or longer, depending on the size and species of the wood.