The removal of a tree often leaves behind a persistent problem: a stump that refuses to die. The remaining root system holds stored energy and nutrients, triggering a survival mechanism that results in new shoots, or suckers, emerging from the stump or surrounding roots. These sprouts attempt to photosynthesize and re-establish the plant, creating an ongoing landscaping nuisance. To definitively prevent this regrowth, it is necessary to eliminate the living root tissue underground. Various methods exist, ranging from chemical treatments to mechanical removal, all requiring specific preparation.
Physical Preparation Before Treatment
Before applying any long-term treatment, the stump must be prepared to maximize the method’s efficacy. The first step is to cut the stump as close to the ground as possible, ideally flush with the soil line, using a chainsaw or handsaw. Reducing the above-ground mass minimizes the material that needs treatment and makes the area easier to work on.
The next preparatory step involves drilling multiple deep holes into the remaining stump surface. These holes should be approximately one inch in diameter and drilled eight to twelve inches deep, or as deep as possible without drilling through the side. It is also beneficial to drill holes into any visible surface roots extending from the stump.
These drilled holes serve two purposes: they increase the surface area, accelerating natural decomposition, and they create reservoirs for the treatment to soak into the wood fibers. For herbicide treatments, the holes must be deep enough to intersect the living cambium layer. This thin ring of tissue just inside the bark transports water and nutrients. Applying treatment directly to this layer ensures the chemical is effectively translocated down to the roots.
Chemical Methods for Preventing Regrowth
Chemical application is an effective way to stop a stump from growing by poisoning the root system. The most common active ingredients are systemic herbicides like glyphosate and triclopyr. These chemicals are absorbed by the plant tissue and travel down to the roots, eliminating the energy source for sprouting.
The treatment must be applied immediately after the tree is cut or to the freshly drilled holes. Since the living cambium layer seals off quickly, prompt application is necessary for herbicide uptake. A concentrated solution of glyphosate (41% or higher active ingredient) or a triclopyr product is poured or painted directly into the freshly drilled holes, focusing on saturating the outer ring of the stump where the living tissue resides.
When using herbicides, take safety precautions to protect yourself and the surrounding environment. Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment, such as gloves and safety glasses, and follow the product label instructions. To avoid harming nearby plants, use a paint brush or a trigger sprayer set to a stream, which minimizes the risk of drift or “flashback” through root grafts to adjacent plants. Depending on the tree species, it may take several weeks to months for the chemical to fully kill the root system and stop sprouting.
Mechanical Removal Options
Mechanical removal, primarily through stump grinding, offers the fastest and most definitive way to eliminate the stump and prevent regrowth. A stump grinder uses a rotating cutting wheel with sharp teeth to chip away at the wood, turning the stump into wood chips. For successful removal, the grinding should extend several inches below the soil line.
The grinding depth depends on the future use of the area. It should reach at least four to six inches below grade to prevent regrowth and allow for planting grass. If the area is intended for a garden bed or planting a new tree, a deeper grind of six to twelve inches or more is recommended to remove more of the lateral root mass. Professional services typically use powerful grinders, but smaller machines can be rented for do-it-yourself projects.
After grinding, the resulting wood chips and soil mixture must be removed from the hole to prevent a raised area or future settling, especially if new planting is planned. For small or young stumps, manual digging and removal is a viable, though labor-intensive, alternative. This involves exposing the roots by digging around the stump and then cutting the roots with a mattock or axe until the stump can be physically dislodged.
Non-Chemical and Passive Decay Acceleration
For those preferring an environmentally gentler approach, non-chemical methods accelerate the natural decay process, although they take considerably longer. These methods rely on creating an environment that encourages the colonization and growth of wood-decay fungi and bacteria. This process begins with drilling deep holes into the stump surface to increase moisture retention and surface area.
High-nitrogen materials are then introduced into these holes to feed the decomposers, as wood is naturally high in carbon but low in nitrogen. Common options include high-nitrogen fertilizer, urea, or organic sources like blood meal or aged manure.
After treating the stump, keeping it consistently moist and covered is necessary for accelerating decay. Covering the stump with a thick layer of mulch, an inverted bucket, or a dark plastic tarp holds in moisture and heat, creating the dark, damp conditions where decomposition thrives. While this method is chemical-free and cost-effective, a complete breakdown of a large stump can take anywhere from one to several years.