Composting in an apartment converts food scraps and organic waste into a nutrient-rich soil amendment within a small, indoor living space. Unlike traditional outdoor composting, which relies on large piles and natural heat, indoor systems require specialized containers and methods to manage volume, temperature, and prevent odor in a confined environment. Successful apartment composting significantly reduces household waste and creates a valuable resource for houseplants or small gardens. The key to success is selecting the right system and carefully managing the ongoing process.
Selecting the Best Indoor Composting Method
The choice of method determines the success of composting in a small space, as each system offers a different balance of speed, odor control, and maintenance. Vermicomposting uses a specific type of earthworm, typically Red Wigglers, to consume food scraps and produce nutrient-dense castings. This method is low-odor when managed correctly, but it requires consistent temperature control. Vermicomposting cannot process high volumes of food waste, meat, or dairy products.
Bokashi composting is an anaerobic fermentation process that uses a specialized bran inoculated with beneficial microbes. The system is fast, taking about two weeks to pickle food scraps, and handles all types of food waste, including cooked meat, dairy, and oils. However, the fermented material is not finished compost. It must be buried in soil or an outdoor location for several weeks to complete decomposition and neutralize its acidity.
A compact electric composter uses heat and grinding to rapidly dehydrate and reduce the volume of food waste. This is the quickest and most convenient method, requiring little hands-on maintenance. It comes with a high initial cost and requires electricity to operate. The resulting material is a sterilized, dry soil amendment, which is best used as a soil additive rather than a true fertilizer.
Essential Materials and Initial Setup
The initial setup must be practical for apartment living, starting with the container. A vermicomposting bin needs sufficient surface area and ventilation holes for air exchange, and must be opaque to keep out light. Bokashi requires a sealed, airtight bucket, often equipped with a spigot to drain the liquid byproduct, known as “Bokashi tea.”
The medium for the system is equally important; for vermicomposting, the base should be a carbon-rich bedding like shredded newspaper, cardboard, or coconut coir, moistened to the consistency of a wrung-out sponge. For Bokashi, the specialized bran is layered with the food scraps. Selecting a location involves finding a spot with a stable, moderate temperature. Keep the system away from direct sunlight or extreme heat, such as under a kitchen sink, in a closet, or on a sheltered balcony.
Managing Common Apartment Composting Issues
A healthy system should not smell foul; a neutral or earthy scent indicates proper function. A rotten or sour smell suggests anaerobic conditions, meaning the compost is too wet or lacks sufficient air flow. To correct this, introduce more carbon materials, or “browns,” like shredded paper or peat moss, to absorb excess moisture. Then, mix the contents to incorporate oxygen.
Pest management focuses on fruit flies and gnats, which are drawn to exposed, decomposing food. The most effective defense is a secure lid, ensuring food scraps are always completely covered, either by burying them under bedding or sprinkling Bokashi bran over the layer. Freezing food scraps for 24 hours before adding them kills any existing fruit fly eggs. Simple vinegar traps placed near the bin can also help capture adult flies.
Maintaining the correct moisture level, similar to a damp sponge, is necessary for microbial activity. Aeration is essential for aerobic systems like vermicomposting, as it introduces oxygen and prevents compaction. If a worm bin is too wet, draining any accumulated liquid, known as leachate, is necessary. Adding more dry bedding will quickly restore the balance.
Harvesting and Utilizing Finished Compost
Harvesting the finished product varies significantly by the chosen method. For vermicomposting, the goal is to separate the worms from their “castings,” which is the dark, crumbly, finished fertilizer. This is often done using the light method, where the compost is spread under a bright light. This causes the light-sensitive worms to burrow downward so the top layer of castings can be scraped away.
Bokashi fermentation produces two usable products: the liquid “tea” drained from the spigot and the fermented food scraps. The scraps must be cured by burying them in soil for two to four weeks to complete the decomposition into a soil amendment. Finished material can be used to top-dress houseplants or mix into potting soil for starting seeds. It can also enrich the containers of a small balcony garden.