The pecan tree (Carya illinoinensis) is a long-lived deciduous tree valued for its extensive shade canopy and nutritious nuts. Starting a pecan tree requires a commitment to long-term planning, as the tree develops slowly over many years. Prospective growers have two main methods for establishing a tree: planting a nut to grow a seedling or planting a nursery-raised, grafted sapling. Each method has distinct implications for the tree’s maturity rate and the quality of its eventual nut production.
Site Selection and Preparation
Pecans are large trees at maturity, often reaching heights of 70 to 100 feet with a similar spread, necessitating careful consideration of the planting location. They thrive best in full sun, requiring at least six to eight hours of direct light daily for proper growth and nut development. The soil must be deep and well-drained, as pecans cannot tolerate waterlogged conditions that can suffocate their extensive root systems.
The ideal soil composition is a deep, fertile sandy loam with a pH ranging from 6.0 to 7.0. Before planting, ensure the site is free of hardpans or compacted layers that would impede the deep taproot growth. Pecans are monoecious, possessing separate male and female flowers on the same tree, but these often mature at different times, limiting self-pollination. To ensure a generous harvest, plant at least two different cultivars (one from Type I and one from Type II) to allow for proper cross-pollination.
Starting Pecans from Nuts
Beginning a pecan tree directly from a nut, known as sexual propagation, is typically done to produce rootstock rather than a specific nut-producing cultivar. The resulting seedling will not reliably produce nuts identical to the parent tree due to genetic variation, and the time until fruiting is lengthy, often taking 10 to 15 years. However, this method is the most inexpensive way to begin growing a pecan tree.
Pecan nuts possess a natural dormancy that must be broken through cold stratification, which simulates winter conditions. Growers should select well-filled nuts and soak them in water for 24 hours before stratification. The nuts are then stored in a moist medium, such as peat moss or vermiculite, at temperatures between 36°F and 41°F for 90 to 120 days. This cold, moist treatment is necessary for uniform germination once the weather warms.
After stratification, the nuts can be planted directly into containers or a prepared nursery bed in late winter or early spring. Plant the nuts on their side about 1 to 1.5 inches deep. Planting directly into the final location is not generally recommended due to the difficulty of managing weeds and protecting the emerging seedlings from pests. Seedlings develop a long taproot quickly, making transplanting difficult without damaging the root, which can stunt the tree’s growth.
Planting Grafted Pecan Saplings
Planting a nursery-bought, grafted sapling is the preferred method for growers seeking predictable results and faster nut production. Grafting involves joining a desirable cultivar (the scion) onto a hardy rootstock, which guarantees the quality of the nuts and reduces the time to harvest to five to ten years. Most grafted trees are sold as bare-root stock during their dormant season, typically between December and March.
To prepare the planting site, dig a hole substantially wider than the root mass but only deep enough so the tree sits at the same level it did in the nursery. Bare-root trees often have a noticeable color change on the trunk indicating the original soil line. The graft union must remain a few inches above the finished soil grade. Planting too deeply deprives the roots of oxygen, stressing the tree and potentially leading to instability.
Before placing the tree, inspect the roots and trim any that are broken or twisted. For bare-root trees, the long taproot may need to be cut back by about one-third to encourage a more fibrous root system. Backfill the hole carefully with the original soil, ensuring the roots are spread out, and gently tamp the soil to eliminate air pockets. Water the tree thoroughly to help the soil settle, but avoid adding fertilizer or soil amendments directly into the hole, as pecans are sensitive to fertilizer burn at planting.
Establishing the Young Tree
Once planted, the first few years are focused on establishing a strong root system and a sound structural framework. Proper watering is the single most important factor for survival, especially during the first two years, as the tree works to rehydrate its reduced root system. Water deeply and infrequently, allowing the top two to three inches of soil to dry slightly before watering again, ensuring the moisture penetrates the entire root zone.
Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips, around the base of the tree conserves soil moisture and moderates soil temperature fluctuations. Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture buildup that could encourage disease or pest activity. Newly planted bare-root trees should be “headed back” by pruning one-third to one-half of the top growth to compensate for the root loss during digging. This severe initial cut stimulates vigorous new growth and helps balance the reduced root-to-shoot ratio.
Initial structural pruning aims to develop a strong central leader, which will become the main trunk of the mature tree. During the first growing season, select the strongest, most upright shoot to serve as the leader and remove any competing shoots that develop immediately below it. Retain temporary side shoots but keep them short by pinching back their tips, which helps increase the trunk’s caliper and overall strength. Protecting the young trunk with a tree guard or wire mesh is advisable to deter rodents, sunscald, and potential damage from deer browsing.