Converting a grassy area into a garden space requires careful planning to manage the existing vegetation. A lawn provides a dense mat of roots and persistent growth that must be fully addressed before cultivation can begin. Complete grass removal is the initial hurdle that determines the long-term success of the new garden. This transformation requires a strategic approach to ensure a hospitable environment for new plants.
Initial Planning and Site Assessment
Before disturbing the turf, assess the chosen area to ensure it meets the needs of the desired plants. Sunlight exposure is a primary factor, as most flowering plants and vegetables require a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sun daily. Observing the site throughout the day helps determine patterns of full sun versus partial shade, guiding plant selection.
Identifying the nearest accessible water source is also a practical consideration for irrigation efficiency. Once the location is confirmed, clearly define the garden’s physical boundaries. Use stakes and string or landscape spray paint to mark the exact perimeter of the new bed, simplifying the removal process.
Choosing the Right Turf Removal Method
Removing established grass roots and foliage is the most time-consuming part of starting a garden in a lawn. The best removal method depends on the gardener’s available time and willingness to expend physical effort, as each approach leads to varying timelines for planting.
Sheet Mulching/Smothering
Sheet mulching is a low-effort method that relies on depriving the grass of light, which then causes it to die and decompose into the soil. The process begins by mowing the grass as low as possible before laying down a light-blocking layer, such as overlapping sheets of cardboard or several layers of newspaper. This barrier must be fully moistened and then topped with a layer of carbon-rich material, like shredded bark or wood chips, to hold it in place. This technique is slow, taking anywhere from two months to an entire growing season to fully kill the turf and allow the material to break down.
Manual Digging/Sod Removal
Physically removing the sod is the fastest route to bare soil for gardeners needing immediate results. This method is the most labor-intensive but allows for planting almost immediately after the sod is lifted. A flat spade or a rented sod cutter is used to slice horizontally beneath the grass roots, about two inches deep, separating the turf from the underlying soil. Since the removed sod often contains valuable topsoil, it should be shaken vigorously before being hauled away or composted.
Solarization
Solarization uses the sun’s heat to kill the grass and any dormant weed seeds in the upper soil layers. This method involves cutting the grass short, watering the area thoroughly, and then covering it with a sheet of clear plastic, usually four to six-mil thick. The edges of the plastic must be sealed by burying them in a trench to effectively trap heat and moisture. In warm, sunny weather, the soil temperature can reach up to 140°F, sterilizing the top six to twelve inches of soil within four to eight weeks during the hottest part of the year.
Preparing the Substrate for Planting
Once the grass is dead or removed, the focus shifts to optimizing the soil structure for new plant roots. Lawn areas are often subject to heavy compaction from foot traffic and mowing, which reduces the air pockets necessary for root growth and water infiltration. Addressing this compaction is necessary for a productive garden.
Compaction can be relieved using a broadfork, a tool that loosens the soil deeply without completely turning over the layers. If a broadfork is unavailable, light tilling of the top six inches can break up dense soil, but excessive tilling should be avoided as it disrupts the existing microbial structure.
Incorporating organic matter is the most effective way to improve any soil type, whether heavy clay or fast-draining sand. A simple soil test provides valuable information about existing pH and nutrient levels, guiding the application of specific amendments. Adding a three to six-inch layer of well-aged compost or manure across the entire bed improves soil fertility and drainage. This organic material provides a slow-release source of nutrients and enhances the soil’s capacity to hold air and moisture. The amendments should be lightly mixed into the top layer of loosened soil.
Planting and Initial Garden Establishment
Carefully consider the mature size of the chosen plants to ensure adequate spacing, as overcrowding inhibits air circulation and encourages disease. For seedlings and transplants, digging a hole only as deep as the root ball prevents the plant from settling too low, which can lead to stem rot.
After placing the plants in the prepared soil, the area requires a deep, initial watering to help settle the soil and eliminate air pockets around the roots. This step is immediately followed by applying a thin layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded leaves. Mulch helps suppress any remaining grass remnants or weed seeds that may sprout in the newly exposed soil. It also regulates soil temperature and conserves moisture, reducing the need for constant watering during the establishment phase.