Ficus carica, the common fig tree, is a hardy and rewarding fruit producer that thrives in many climates. Propagating a fig from a cutting is an economical and reliable method for home gardeners to expand their orchard or share a favorite variety. Figs root easily from vegetative cuttings, making this the most popular way to grow new trees, unlike many fruit plants that require grafting. This process starts a new tree from a dormant branch, ensuring the resulting plant is genetically identical to the parent tree.
Selecting and Preparing Fig Cuttings
The best time to take fig cuttings is during the tree’s dormant season, typically from late fall after the leaves have dropped until late winter or early spring just before the buds swell. Cuttings should be taken from the previous season’s growth, known as hardwood, which has fully lignified and has a brown, woody exterior. Select healthy stems that are roughly the thickness of a pencil, measuring between one-quarter and three-quarters of an inch in diameter.
Each cutting should be approximately six to ten inches long and contain at least three to four nodes. Use clean, sharp pruning shears to ensure a clean severing of the vascular tissue when making the cuts. Make a slanted cut at the bottom (the end placed in the rooting medium) and a straight cut at the top to distinguish the orientation.
To encourage root formation, lightly wound the bark at the bottom inch of the cutting by gently scoring it with a knife or scraping a thin strip off. This abrasion stimulates the plant to form callus tissue, from which roots will emerge. Applying a rooting hormone powder or gel to the wounded base can accelerate the process. Sealing the top of the cutting with melted wax or specialized tape prevents the branch from drying out before roots can form.
Rooting Methods and Environment Control
Success in propagating fig cuttings depends on maintaining consistent warmth and high humidity during the rooting phase. An ideal temperature range for the rooting medium is between 72°F and 78°F, often requiring a specialized heat mat to provide bottom warmth. This heat encourages root formation before the top buds sprout leaves, which could otherwise deplete the cutting’s stored energy.
A simple, well-draining potting mix or a blend of perlite and peat moss are reliable choices for rooting. Insert the cutting into the moist medium, ensuring at least one node remains above the surface. Alternatively, the “fig pop” method involves sealing the cutting in a container with a small amount of moist medium, creating a miniature humidity chamber.
Rooting in plain water is also possible, allowing direct observation of root development, but the water must be changed frequently to prevent rotting. High ambient humidity is needed to reduce moisture loss from the cutting, regardless of the medium chosen. Bright, indirect light is best during this initial period, as direct sunlight can cause excessive heat buildup. Root development typically takes four to eight weeks, signaled by the appearance of new leaves.
Hardening Off and Initial Transplant Care
Once the cutting has developed a strong root system and new leaves, it must go through “hardening off” before being moved outdoors permanently. This process prepares the young plant for harsher outdoor conditions like direct sunlight, lower humidity, and wind. The transition should be gradual, typically taking seven to fourteen days to complete.
Begin by placing the rooted cutting outside in a fully shaded, wind-sheltered location for a few hours each day. Over the first week, slowly increase the time the plant spends outdoors and progressively expose it to direct sunlight. Start with an hour or two of morning sun and incrementally move the plant into brighter locations until it tolerates a full day of sun exposure.
After hardening off, the fig can be potted into a larger container or planted directly into its final garden spot. Proper watering is important, as the young root system is susceptible to both drying out and waterlogging. Keep the soil consistently moist but never saturated, allowing the top inch or two to dry slightly between waterings. For the first growing season and winter, the young fig requires protection from hard freezes, often by moving it into an unheated garage or basement.