Growing a persimmon tree from a small seed is a rewarding process. The process begins with obtaining seeds from fully mature fruit, which is often easier with the American persimmon variety, Diospyros virginiana. While Asian persimmons (Diospyros kaki) can also be grown from seed, commercial varieties are frequently grafted, and the resulting seedlings may not produce fruit true to the parent. Starting a persimmon from seed can take anywhere from four to eight years before the tree is mature enough to bear fruit. Understanding the biological requirements of the seed is the first step in successfully initiating germination.
Sourcing and Cleaning the Seeds
The journey begins by carefully extracting the seeds from fully ripened fruit, ensuring they are plump and appear viable. Viable seeds are typically dark brown or black, feel hard to the touch, and should be selected only from the healthiest specimens. It is crucial to remove all traces of the surrounding fruit pulp, as residual sugars can encourage fungal growth or mold during storage or stratification.
Cleaning involves gently scrubbing the seeds under cool, running water to completely detach the sticky, gelatinous coating. Any remaining pulp can act as a germination inhibitor, preventing the seed from successfully breaking dormancy. After cleaning, the seeds should be spread out on a paper towel in a dry location, allowing them to air-dry for at least 48 hours before moving to the next stage.
Simulating Winter: Cold Stratification
Persimmon seeds require cold stratification to overcome natural dormancy. This process involves mimicking the natural cold, moist conditions of winter to chemically prepare the internal embryo for successful growth. The seeds must be subjected to temperatures consistently ranging between 35°F and 40°F (approximately 1°C to 4°C) to effectively break dormancy.
A suitable medium for this process is one that retains moisture without becoming saturated, such as slightly dampened peat moss, sterile sand, or a moist paper towel placed inside a sealed plastic bag. The medium must be only damp and not soaking wet, as excessive moisture causes mold and fungal issues during stratification. The sealed container should then be placed in a refrigerator, ideally in the crisper drawer, away from any potential freezing temperatures.
The required duration for successful stratification is typically between 60 and 100 days, though 90 days is often cited as the standard treatment for persimmon seeds. During this time, the gardener should regularly check the seeds for signs of mold or drying out, adjusting the moisture level as needed to maintain a consistently cool and damp environment. This sustained cold treatment alters the level of growth-inhibiting hormones within the seed. Observing the seed coat beginning to crack is a strong indication that the internal embryo is ready to emerge and the stratification period can conclude.
Planting and Nurturing the Sprout
Once the cold stratification period is complete, or if the seed shows signs of splitting, it is ready to be transferred to a planting medium. A sterile, well-draining seed-starting mix is the preferred choice, as it reduces the risk of soil-borne diseases that can harm the fragile new root. Avoid heavy garden soil, which can compact and impede the emerging root and shoot, especially since persimmon seedlings develop a long taproot early on.
The seeds should be planted at a shallow depth, typically about one-half inch to one inch below the surface of the soil. Planting too deep will deplete the seed’s stored energy before the shoot can reach the light, often resulting in a failed sprout. The container should then be moved to a warm environment, ideally where the temperature is maintained between 70°F and 75°F, to encourage rapid cell division and growth.
Consistent moisture is necessary during the germination phase, but the soil should never be allowed to become waterlogged. Placing the pot in a location that receives bright, indirect sunlight, or under a grow light, provides the energy needed for photosynthesis once the sprout emerges. Given the proper conditions, the seedling typically emerges from the soil within two to eight weeks after planting. Once the seedling has developed its first true leaves, it can be carefully thinned or transplanted to a slightly larger container, taking care not to disturb the developing taproot.