Strawberry plants are short-lived perennials, and their productivity naturally declines after about three to four years, which makes propagation a necessary gardening practice. Rejuvenating an older patch or expanding a successful one requires multiplying the existing plants to maintain high yields and plant vigor. Strawberries multiply themselves through two distinct biological processes that gardeners can harness. Understanding these methods allows for targeted propagation, ensuring a healthy new generation of berries without the expense of buying new stock.
Understanding Strawberry Propagation Methods
Strawberries naturally reproduce using specialized horizontal stems called stolons, commonly known as runners. These runners extend out from the parent plant and form small daughter plantlets at their nodes, which then develop their own roots and leaves. June-bearing varieties are particularly prolific producers of these runners during the summer months after their main harvest, making runner separation the simplest and most common method of propagation.
A second method involves the division of the plant’s crown, which is the short, compressed stem structure where the leaves and roots originate. Ever-bearing and day-neutral varieties tend to produce fewer runners but instead develop multiple crowns on the main plant over time. This crown division process is primarily used to multiply these less runner-heavy types or to salvage older, multi-crowned plants that are nearing the end of their productive life. Both techniques ultimately allow the gardener to create genetically identical copies of a desirable mother plant.
Optimal Timing and Site Preparation
The most favorable time for strawberry propagation is typically late summer to early fall, specifically from late August through September, after the main fruiting season has concluded. Propagating during this period allows the newly separated or divided plants several weeks to establish a robust root system before the onset of winter dormancy. Strong root development is a prerequisite for a successful harvest in the following year.
The new planting site requires careful preparation to ensure the young plants thrive. Strawberries prefer a rich, well-draining, sandy loam soil with a slightly acidic pH, ideally between 5.5 and 7.0. Incorporating a generous amount of well-rotted compost into the soil improves structure and nutrient retention. Before beginning the physical separation, gather a sharp pair of pruning shears, a garden trowel or spade, and a bucket of water to keep the delicate roots of the new plants from drying out.
Step-by-Step: Separating Runners and Dividing Crowns
Separating new plants from runners is often the easiest way to multiply June-bearing varieties. First, identify daughter plantlets that have produced at least two sets of trifoliate leaves and have begun to root into the surrounding soil. To encourage rooting, you may have gently secured the plantlet to the ground with a bent piece of wire a few weeks prior. Once the plantlet is well-rooted, use clean, sharp shears to snip the stolon connecting it to the mother plant, severing the connection entirely.
The alternative method is dividing the crown of an older, multi-crowned plant. Gently dig up the entire mother plant, lifting the root ball intact with a garden fork or spade. Brush away excess soil to expose the thick, woody crown structure where the multiple growing points meet the roots. Using a clean, sharp knife or the edge of a spade, cut the crown into sections, ensuring each new division has at least one healthy growing point and a substantial mass of white, fibrous roots attached.
When replanting these new divisions, whether they are rooted runners or crown sections, planting depth must be precise. Dig a hole deep and wide enough to accommodate the roots without bending or compacting them. Position the plant so the central crown is set precisely at the soil surface; burying the crown can lead to rot, while planting it too high will expose the roots to drying out.
Establishing New Plants and Long-Term Care
Immediately after transplanting the new divisions, water them deeply and thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets. New transplants undergo a period of stress, so consistent moisture is necessary, especially during the first few weeks of establishment. Applying a low-nitrogen, balanced fertilizer at the time of planting will support initial root growth without excessively promoting leafy growth.
Proper spacing is also important, as transplanted runners or crown divisions should be placed about 12 to 18 inches apart to ensure adequate air circulation and sunlight exposure. To allow the new plants to focus all their energy on establishing a strong root system, it is necessary to pinch off any flowers that appear during the remainder of the first growing season. Covering the newly planted bed with a layer of clean straw mulch will help conserve soil moisture, moderate soil temperature fluctuations, and provide winter protection.