The term “split leaf philodendron” commonly refers to large, fenestrated tropical plants, such as Monstera deliciosa or Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (formerly Philodendron selloum). Division is a powerful propagation method that manages the size of these vigorous growers. This process involves separating the plant into smaller, independent root masses when the parent plant becomes overly crowded. Successful division creates new plants while simultaneously revitalizing the original specimen for continued robust growth.
Determining the Right Time for Splitting
The most suitable time to divide a split leaf philodendron is during its dormant period, specifically in late winter or early spring, just before active growth begins. Performing the separation at this time allows the disturbed root systems to recover quickly as the plant enters its peak growing season. The recovery rate is higher when the plant can immediately put energy into new root and leaf production.
Visual indicators signal when a plant is ready for division, often showing that its current container is too small. A primary sign is when the roots are visibly emerging from the pot’s drainage holes or wrapping tightly around the container, known as being root-bound. Crowding can also lead to the plant producing smaller leaves than normal because the root system cannot efficiently take up enough water and nutrients. The presence of distinct offsets or multiple crowns emerging from the soil surface indicates natural points for separation.
Gathering Tools and Preparing the Plant
Gathering all necessary materials ensures the division process is efficient and minimizes the plant’s time out of the soil. You will need a very sharp, sterilized cutting tool, such as a large knife or garden shears, to make clean cuts and prevent the introduction of pathogens. Fresh containers are needed for the new divisions, along with a well-draining potting mix. This mix should ideally be a chunky blend containing components like orchid bark, perlite, and coco coir to ensure proper aeration.
Other useful items include gardening gloves, a tarp or newspaper to protect the workspace, and a sterilizing agent, like rubbing alcohol, for the cutting tool. Preparation requires withholding water for two to four days prior to division. Slightly dry soil is less likely to cling to the roots, making the entire root mass lighter and easier to handle when removing it from the pot.
Step-by-Step Guide to Dividing the Plant
The physical process begins by carefully extracting the entire root ball from the old container. To do this, gently lay the pot on its side, brace the soil surface near the base of the stems, and slide the plant out; avoid pulling on the stems, which can cause damage. Once the root ball is exposed, gently massage and loosen the soil from the roots to better inspect the root structure for natural divisions.
Look for distinct clumps of stems and roots that are already somewhat separate from the main mass, often referred to as offsets or pups. These natural divisions are connected to the parent plant by a thick rhizome or tangled roots. Carefully tease apart these sections with your fingers, working patiently to minimize damage to the fine feeder roots.
If the root masses are too densely intertwined to separate by hand, use the sterilized knife or shears to make a single, clean cut through the connecting roots or rhizome. Each separated section must possess a healthy, viable root system and at least one active growth point to survive as an independent plant.
Essential Care for Newly Divided Plants
Immediately after separation, transplant the divisions into their new, appropriately sized pots using the fresh, well-draining potting mix. The new container should only be slightly larger than the root ball, typically by no more than two inches in diameter. Water the divisions thoroughly until excess liquid drains from the bottom of the pot, ensuring the new soil settles around the roots and eliminates air pockets.
Place the newly potted divisions in an area that receives bright, indirect light, avoiding direct sunlight for the first two to three weeks. This reduced light intensity helps mitigate transplant shock, a stress response caused by root disturbance. Maintain a consistently warm temperature, ideally between 65°F and 80°F, and moderate humidity to encourage root establishment. Do not resume a standard liquid fertilizer schedule until new, stable growth is observed, indicating the root system has recovered.