The spider plant, or Chlorophytum comosum, is a popular and resilient houseplant known for its arching leaves and easy maintenance. This plant often grows quickly, leading to a crowded root system that can eventually hinder its overall health and growth. Splitting the plant is a necessary technique used to rejuvenate an overly pot-bound specimen, while propagation allows gardeners to multiply their collection using the small offsets the mother plant produces. Both methods result in new, healthy plants.
Preparing the Mother Plant for Division
The most opportune time for dividing a mature spider plant is during the active growing season, typically spring or early summer. Propagating during this period allows the newly separated divisions to establish their root systems quickly. Division is generally required when the plant’s thick, fleshy, tuberous roots begin pushing up out of the soil or distorting the shape of the pot.
Before starting the process, gather a sharp, sterilized knife or pruners, fresh potting mix, and several new containers with drainage holes. Sterilizing your cutting tool with rubbing alcohol prevents the transfer of any potential plant pathogens. Slightly dry soil can make the root mass more pliable and easier to work with.
Step-by-Step Guide to Splitting the Root Mass
Begin the division process by carefully removing the mother plant from its current container, which may require gently squeezing the sides of a plastic pot or tapping the rim of a terracotta one. Once the root ball is free, gently brush away some of the loose soil to expose the dense root structure. The spider plant’s roots are fleshy and thick, often resembling small tubers.
The goal is to divide the entire mass into smaller, viable sections, ensuring each piece retains a healthy cluster of leaves and a sufficient portion of the root system. For very large or tightly packed root balls, a clean, sharp knife may be needed to slice through the dense mass. Aim to cut the plant into two to four manageable sections.
Use your hands to gently pull apart the sections that are not extremely dense. Immediately plant each new division into its own pot, selecting a container slightly larger than the newly divided root mass. Backfill the container with fresh, well-draining potting soil, making sure the crown of the plant sits at the same level it did previously.
Propagating Spider Plantlets
An alternative method involves using the plantlets, also known as “pups” or “spiderettes,” that grow on the ends of the long, arching stems called stolons. These plantlets are clones of the mother plant, and propagating them avoids causing stress to the original root system. The plantlets are ready for separation when they are about two inches in diameter and have developed small aerial roots or root nubs.
Using clean shears, snip the plantlet from the stolon, cutting the stem close to the baby plant.
Soil Rooting
One effective method is to place the plantlet directly into a small container filled with potting soil, burying the rooted base just beneath the surface. This method is straightforward and quickly encourages the development of stronger, more acclimated roots.
Water Rooting
Another common technique involves rooting the plantlet in a glass of water. Ensure only the base of the plantlet is submerged and the leaves remain above the waterline to prevent rotting. Water-grown roots are structurally different and can experience shock when transferred to soil. Select a healthy plantlet showing signs of root growth for the highest success rate.
Ensuring Success After Separation
After splitting the main plant or potting a new plantlet, the new divisions require specific care to overcome transplant shock and establish themselves. Immediately give all newly potted plants a thorough watering until excess moisture drains from the bottom of the container. This initial soak helps settle the soil around the root systems and provides necessary hydration.
Place the newly separated plants in a location that receives bright, indirect light. Monitor the plants closely for the first few weeks for signs of stress, such as drooping or wilting leaves. Avoid applying any fertilizer for at least four to six weeks, as the root divisions need time to heal. Once new leaf growth appears, the regular care routine can resume.