The practice of soaking succulents, often called bottom watering, provides deep hydration that mimics heavy rainfall followed by a dry period. This method encourages the development of a deep root system as roots grow downward toward the moisture source. Soaking allows the soil to absorb water evenly across the entire root ball. It is a favored technique for succulents because it prevents water from settling on the rosette leaves or crown, which significantly reduces the potential for fungal diseases and rot.
Preparing the Succulent for Soaking
Before initiating the soaking process, ensure the pot has at least one functional drainage hole. Without this opening, water cannot be absorbed from below, and excess moisture will remain trapped, leading to root suffocation and rot. The soil must be completely dry before watering, which can be confirmed by pressing a finger or a wooden skewer into the soil down to the bottom of the pot. The pot should be placed into a larger, watertight container, such as a basin or tray.
The effectiveness of bottom watering relies on a well-draining soil mix, typically composed of gritty materials like pumice, perlite, or coarse sand. This substrate allows water to wick upward efficiently through capillary action and then dry out quickly once soaking is complete. If the soil has become compacted or hydrophobic, bottom watering is particularly effective at rehydrating the soil mass. Newly potted succulents or those with short, fragile root systems are generally not ready for this method, as their roots may not be established enough to draw water upward effectively.
Executing the Soaking Process
To begin the soak, fill the outer container with clean, room-temperature water to avoid shocking the roots. Using filtered or distilled water can help reduce the buildup of mineral salts often present in tap water. Pour the water into the basin until it reaches a depth that covers about one-third to one-half of the pot’s height. For smaller pots, an inch or two of water is often sufficient to initiate the wicking action.
Carefully place the potted succulent into the basin, ensuring the drainage holes are submerged. The process relies on the soil’s capillary action to draw moisture up into the root ball, which happens naturally but requires patience. The water moves upward against gravity, slowly saturating the soil from the bottom toward the surface. Avoid pressing down on the pot or manually pushing water into the soil, as this can disrupt the natural absorption process.
Allow sufficient time for the water to permeate the entire soil mass. Leaving the plant in the water for too short a time may only hydrate the bottom section, leaving the upper roots dry. The goal is to achieve full saturation without forcing the plant to sit in water for an extended period.
Identifying Full Saturation
The primary indicator that the soil is fully saturated is a visible change in the color and texture of the topsoil. As water wicks upward, the surface soil transitions from a light, dry appearance to a noticeably darker, damp color. This visual confirmation indicates that moisture has traveled through the entire pot, fully hydrating the root zone. This color change can be misleading if the pot has a thick top dressing of decorative pebbles.
A highly reliable technique to determine complete saturation is the “weight test,” which involves comparing the pot’s weight before and after soaking. A pot filled with bone-dry succulent soil will feel significantly lighter than a fully saturated one. Lift the pot out of the water and assess its heft; if it feels substantially heavier, the watering has been successful.
The time required for full saturation is variable, depending on the pot size, soil composition, and humidity, but a common range is between 15 and 45 minutes. Small pots may saturate in as little as 5 to 15 minutes, while larger containers may require closer to an hour. Remove the succulent from the water once saturation is confirmed, as leaving it for too long can lead to over-saturation and increase the risk of root shock or rot.
Post-Soaking Drainage and Safety
Once the pot feels heavy and the topsoil appears moist, immediately remove it from the water source. The crucial next step is to ensure all excess water drains freely from the pot’s base. Place the pot on a wire rack or elevate it so that air can circulate beneath the drainage holes, allowing gravity to pull out standing moisture. A complete drainage period of 10 to 30 minutes is recommended to allow the soil to shed any water it cannot retain.
Failure to allow complete drainage is the most common error that leads to root rot. The roots need access to oxygen, and if the soil remains waterlogged, the air pockets are replaced by water, causing the roots to suffocate. Under no circumstances should the pot be returned to its decorative saucer or location if any standing water remains in the tray.