Soaking is a highly effective method for watering common household orchids, particularly the popular Phalaenopsis or moth orchid. This technique mimics the natural environment of epiphytic orchids, which grow on trees and receive moisture from tropical rainstorms followed by rapid drying. Their specialized roots are covered in a spongy layer called velamen, which quickly absorbs large amounts of water. Soaking ensures the potting medium is fully saturated, allowing the velamen to hydrate completely, which is more efficient than simply watering from above.
Preparing Your Orchid and Water
Before starting the soaking process, prepare both your orchid and the water source. The water should be lukewarm or room temperature, as cold water can shock the plant’s sensitive root system. Avoid using softened tap water, which contains elevated levels of sodium that can harm the orchid over time. Distilled, reverse osmosis, or clean rainwater are better alternatives.
Select a container large enough to hold the orchid’s inner pot without submerging the leaves or the crown (the central growth point where the leaves meet). Inspect the roots through the clear plastic nursery pot before placing the pot in the container. Roots that appear shriveled or silvery-gray signal that the orchid is thirsty and ready for a deep soak.
The Complete Soaking Process
To begin, place the orchid, still in its original slotted pot, into the prepared container. Slowly pour the lukewarm water around the sides of the pot until the water level reaches just below the rim of the inner pot. Ensure the water level remains well below the crown to prevent moisture from settling in the center of the plant.
Allow the orchid to soak for 10 to 30 minutes, depending on how dry the potting medium is. This extended period is necessary for the potting mix, especially bark, to fully absorb the water, as dry bark can become temporarily water-repellent. Thorough saturation ensures the bark or moss releases moisture slowly to the roots.
Once the soaking time is complete, the outer layer of the roots should have turned a healthy, saturated green color. This thorough saturation is what separates the soaking method from quick top-watering, which often leaves the inner root ball dry.
Establishing a Watering Schedule
Determining the appropriate frequency for soaking is based on observing your orchid and its environment, not adhering to a calendar date. Warmer temperatures, lower humidity, and a bark-based potting mix will cause the orchid to dry out faster, requiring more frequent watering. Conversely, a sphagnum moss medium holds moisture longer, meaning less frequent soaks are necessary.
The most reliable indicator of thirst is the color of the roots visible through the clear plastic pot. If the roots are a vibrant green, they are hydrated, but once they turn a pale, silvery-gray color, it is time to soak the orchid again. You can also gauge the need for water by lifting the pot; a hydrated pot will feel heavier than one that is dry.
Preventing Common Soaking Errors
The primary risk after soaking an orchid is allowing it to sit in excess water, which can quickly lead to root rot. After removing the pot from the soaking container, allow all retained water to drain completely from the bottom holes. Let the pot sit over the sink or a drainage tray for several minutes until no more water drips out.
This complete drainage step is necessary before returning the orchid to its decorative container or saucer. Another common mistake is allowing water to pool in the crown or between the leaves during the process. If water accumulates in these areas, gently blot it dry with a paper towel or cotton swab to prevent crown rot.