Dull garden clippers damage plants, requiring gardeners to exert more force and resulting in ragged cuts. This crushing action tears plant tissue, creating larger, slower-healing wounds that make the plant susceptible to infection and disease. Clean cuts, made by a sharp blade, heal much faster, allowing the plant to direct its energy toward growth rather than recovery. Maintaining a sharp edge on your clippers extends the life of your tool and promotes the health of your entire garden. This guide outlines the necessary steps to restore a clean, precise cutting edge.
Essential Preparation and Required Tools
Before any sharpening can begin, the clippers must be thoroughly cleaned and prepared. It is highly recommended to disassemble your clippers, especially if they are heavily soiled or rusted, to access all surfaces of the blades. You can use a wrench to carefully loosen the central pivot bolt, taking a photo or note of the order of washers and springs to simplify reassembly.
Next, remove all accumulated sap, dirt, and rust from the metal surfaces. Plant sap contains sticky resins that impede the blade’s movement, and rust accelerates the dulling process. A wire brush or coarse steel wool, combined with a solvent like rubbing alcohol, is effective for scrubbing off dried organic matter. Soaking the blade end in white vinegar overnight helps to dissolve extensive corrosion, which can then be scrubbed away.
Once the blades are clean, gather the necessary items for sharpening. A sharpening stone or a diamond file is the preferred tool for restoring the edge, and you should also have a rag and a general-purpose oil handy. Always wear sturdy work gloves to protect your hands from the freshly exposed sharp edges and any chemicals.
Step-by-Step Sharpening Techniques
The correct sharpening technique depends on the type of clippers you are using, which are typically either bypass or anvil models. Bypass clippers operate like scissors, with a single cutting blade passing by a hooked counter-blade. Anvil clippers have a single, straight cutting blade that closes onto a flat metal or plastic surface, called the anvil.
For bypass clippers, sharpen only the beveled (sloped) outer edge of the cutting blade. This bevel is usually ground to an angle between 20 and 25 degrees, and it is crucial to match this existing factory angle with your sharpening stone or file. Hold your sharpening tool flat against the bevel and push it consistently in one direction, moving from the heel toward the tip. Avoid a back-and-forth motion, as this can weaken the edge.
After several passes, you will feel a thin, raised edge of metal, called a burr, forming on the back, flat side of the blade. The burr indicates that you have successfully ground the bevel down to a fine point. Turn the blade over to the flat side and gently run the file or stone across it, keeping the tool perfectly flat. This action shaves off the burr without creating a new bevel, ensuring the blade remains flush against the counter-blade for a clean cut.
Anvil clippers often have a bevel on both sides of the blade, similar to a knife edge, though some only have a single bevel. If your anvil blade has a bevel on both sides, you will sharpen each side evenly, typically at an angle close to 20 degrees, until a burr is raised. For single-beveled anvil blades, you sharpen only the sloping side, and then remove the burr from the flat side, much like the bypass technique. Never sharpen the non-cutting flat anvil plate, as its purpose is to act as a solid base.
Post-Sharpening Care and Assembly
Once the blade edge is restored and the burr has been removed, protect the newly exposed metal. Use a clean rag to wipe down all metal components, ensuring no filing debris or moisture remains. Apply a few drops of penetrating oil, mineral oil, or hydrophobic grease to the blade surfaces and the central pivot point.
Lubrication serves a dual purpose: it prevents the steel from rusting after being exposed during sharpening, and it ensures smooth, effortless operation. The oil creates a thin barrier against atmospheric moisture, which is the primary cause of corrosion. Open and close the clippers several times to work the lubricant into the joint and across the blade surface.
If you disassembled the clippers for cleaning, you can now reassemble them, referring to your notes or photo to ensure all components are returned to their proper positions. Tighten the pivot bolt until the blades meet with a clean action but can still open and close smoothly without excessive friction. Store your sharpened clippers in a cool, dry place, away from direct soil contact or prolonged exposure to moisture, to maintain their edge and prevent future rust.