The setup of a bee box, typically a Langstroth hive, is the foundational step in successful beekeeping. This wooden structure serves as the artificial cavity that a new honey bee colony will call home. This guide details the physical preparation and placement of the structure, turning wooden parts into a suitable environment for a thriving colony before the bees arrive.
Necessary Components and Assembly
The bee box structure begins with the woodenware, which usually arrives as a disassembled kit. Major components include the bottom board, the hive bodies (deep boxes for the brood chamber), the inner cover, and the telescoping outer cover. Assembly requires careful attention to ensure structural integrity and correct dimensions.
Each hive body consists of four pre-cut sides that interlock using finger joints. These joints must be tapped together firmly and secured using exterior-grade nails or screws. Use a carpenter’s square during assembly to ensure all corners form a perfect 90-degree angle, as a non-square box makes frame manipulation difficult.
The bottom board serves as the floor, providing a landing platform and entrance. The hive bodies are stacked on this base, followed by the inner cover, which provides insulation and “bee space” above the frames. The telescoping outer cover is then placed over the inner cover, shielding the structure from weather elements.
Preparing the Hive Interior
The interior preparation focuses on the frames, which are the heart of the hive and must be ready for comb construction. Each frame consists of a top bar, two side bars, and a bottom bar assembled into a rigid rectangle using small nails or staples. Precision is paramount, as straight frames allow for easy inspection and manipulation without damaging the comb.
Foundation, a sheet of material embossed with the hexagonal cell pattern, is secured within the frame to guide comb building. This foundation may be natural beeswax or textured plastic, serving as a template for the worker bees to draw out cells for brood rearing and food storage.
A standard deep hive body holds ten full frames, and all ten must be installed, even for a new colony. Installing a full count ensures the correct “bee space,” which prevents bees from filling gaps with brace comb that would fuse the frames together.
Site Selection and Placement
Choosing the correct location is a major factor in the colony’s long-term health and productivity. The hive entrance should ideally be oriented toward the southeast to capture the morning sun. This early sunlight encourages worker bees to begin foraging earlier, increasing the colony’s overall productivity.
The hive should be protected from the strongest prevailing winds, often using a natural windbreak like a hedge or fence. A sturdy hive stand must elevate the bee box at least 12 inches off the ground. This elevation prevents soil moisture from wicking into the wooden components and deters ground-level pests.
The location must be easily accessible for the beekeeper for routine inspections and harvesting. The ground beneath the hive must be well-drained to avoid standing water, as damp conditions promote pathogens like chalkbrood fungus. A clear flight path in front of the entrance, free of obstructions, is necessary for unimpeded movement.
Final Preparations Before Bee Introduction
Before the new bees are introduced, final adjustments turn the prepared box into a safe, functional home. The assembled hive must be level from side to side to ensure the bees build straight comb within the frames. A slight forward slope is recommended to allow rainwater to drain off the bottom board.
An entrance reducer, a small block of wood with a narrow opening, must be inserted into the hive entrance. This smaller opening helps the small colony defend its limited resources against robbing insects and pests until its population grows. The stand must be secured to prevent the structure from tipping over.
The new colony requires supplemental feeding to provide the energy needed to draw out the new comb. An internal feeder, such as a frame feeder or a top feeder with 1:1 sugar syrup, should be placed inside the hive or on the inner cover. This immediate carbohydrate source ensures the colony can begin its work immediately.