The presence of moles in a lawn or garden, often indicated by unsightly mounds and raised ridges, can be a frustrating problem for homeowners. These subterranean mammals create extensive tunnel systems that damage turf and disrupt plant roots as they search for food. While various control methods exist, trapping is the most effective and reliable strategy for removing moles from a property. Successful removal relies on a precise, step-by-step approach that begins long before the trap is actually set in the ground.
Identifying Active Tunnel Runs
The initial step in successful mole trapping is accurately locating the tunnels currently being used by the mole. Moles create two primary types of tunnels: shallow, winding feeding tunnels and deeper, straighter main runway tunnels. Feeding tunnels are typically just beneath the surface and may only be used once, making them poor locations for a trap. Traps should instead be placed in the main runways, which moles travel frequently, sometimes multiple times a day, as they connect nesting and feeding areas.
To confirm that a main runway is active, a simple “flattening test” should be performed. Press down on a small section of the raised tunnel ridge, collapsing the soil. A flag or marker can be placed at this location. If the mole is actively using that passage, it will quickly repair the collapsed section, raising the soil again within a 12- to 24-hour period. A repaired tunnel is the ideal, high-traffic location for setting a trap.
Selecting the Right Trap
Once an active tunnel is identified, selecting an appropriate trap is the next consideration, as different designs are better suited for varied soil conditions or user preferences. The three most common types are the scissor, harpoon, and choker loop traps.
The scissor or pincer trap features two jaws that snap shut when triggered, making it effective and a popular choice in various soil types. Harpoon or spear traps are driven into the ground by a strong spring, impaling the mole as it pushes up against a trigger pan. This style is generally easier to set and works well in shallow surface runs.
The choker loop or body grip trap utilizes wire loops that tighten around the mole’s body, providing a quick and clean kill. Professionals often favor loop-style traps, but they may require slightly more excavation for installation. Regardless of the model chosen, handle the device with gloves during preparation. Moles possess a keen sense of smell and may avoid runs that carry a strong human scent. Users must practice setting the powerful spring mechanism safely before setting the trap.
Installation and Setting the Trap
Careful placement is required to ensure the mole intercepts the trigger mechanism. The process begins by using a trowel or small shovel to cut a neat plug of sod directly over the active runway, creating an opening large enough to accommodate the trap. Loose soil and debris must be cleared from the tunnel path to ensure the mole has an unobstructed route and the trap’s mechanism is not blocked.
The trap is then positioned securely inside the opening, aligning the trigger plate or loops directly with the center of the mole’s runway. For many traps, this means the device must be placed perpendicular to the direction of the tunnel’s travel. Once the trap is firmly seated, the spring is engaged, and the mechanism is set, ensuring the trigger is held in a sensitive, ready position.
Compact the soil around the base of the trap to secure it firmly and prevent movement. Finally, the opening must be covered completely, either by replacing the sod plug or using a flat piece of wood or a bucket. Moles are highly sensitive to light and air movement, and sealing the tunnel encourages the mole to immediately attempt to repair the breach, thereby triggering the trap.
Checking the Traps and Disposal
Once a trap is set, it must be checked frequently to ensure a swift and humane outcome. Inspect the traps at least once every 24 hours. Daily checking is often required by law in some jurisdictions and prevents undue suffering.
When approaching a set trap, look for the visible indicator that the mechanism has sprung, such as the handles of a scissor trap popping up. If the trap has been triggered, carefully remove it from the ground. Disposal should be handled in accordance with local wildlife regulations, which typically involves burying the animal or placing it in the trash. If a trap has not sprung after two or three days, it should be relocated to a different active run, as the mole may have altered its route or the trap was improperly set.