Groundhogs (woodchucks) are destructive to gardens and landscapes due to their extensive burrowing habits and appetite for vegetation. The tunnel systems they create can undermine foundations and damage utility lines, making removal necessary for property protection. Live-trapping and relocating the animal provides a humane method for resolving this conflict. This process requires selecting the right equipment, strategic trap placement, and adherence to safe handling protocols.
Selecting the Appropriate Live Trap and Lure
A successful live-capture operation begins with choosing the correct size cage trap. The trap should have an opening at least ten inches wide and approximately a foot tall. These dimensions ensure the animal can fully enter, allowing the trigger plate to activate reliably. A single-door trap design with the trigger plate positioned toward the back often proves easier to set and is less prone to accidental tripping than dual-entry models.
Groundhogs are herbivores attracted to sweet vegetation; cantaloupe is often reported as the most effective lure. Other fresh baits like cut apples, carrots, or leafy greens can also be successful, depending on what the groundhog has been raiding from your garden. To increase the likelihood of a catch, consider pre-baiting by placing food outside the trap entrance for a few days before setting the mechanism. This helps acclimate the animal to the trap’s presence.
Precise Trap Placement and Setting
Optimal trap placement involves identifying the primary burrow entrance, usually marked by a large mound of displaced dirt called a “porch.” The trap should be placed directly in the main travel path leading to this entrance, or approximately three feet away from the hole. Wear gloves during the entire process to prevent transferring human scent onto the metal, which can deter the groundhog.
After positioning the trap, ensure it is level and stable to prevent movement that could prematurely trigger the closing mechanism or alarm the animal. The bait should be placed well past the trigger plate, ideally near the back of the trap for a single-door model, forcing the groundhog to step completely inside. Trappers can enhance the setup by using surrounding objects like logs or stones to funnel the animal directly toward the trap opening.
The final step is engaging the trigger mechanism, requiring careful attention to avoid injury. A sensitive trigger is desirable for a quick capture, but ensure fingers are clear of the door once the latch is set. Once the trap is armed, a trail of bait leading from the burrow entrance to the trap opening can encourage the groundhog to investigate and enter.
Safe Handling and Relocation Guidelines
Before trapping begins, check local and state regulations, as laws govern the live-trapping and relocation of nuisance wildlife. This includes required checking intervals and permissible release sites. Relocating an animal to an unsuitable area reduces its chances of survival and can transfer the problem elsewhere. Experts suggest a relocation distance of at least ten miles from the capture site to prevent the animal from returning.
Once a groundhog is captured, approach the cage cautiously, as the animal will be stressed and may attempt to bite or scratch. Covering the entire trap with a heavy blanket or tarp will calm the groundhog by blocking visual stimuli and minimizing stress during transport. The chosen release location should be a suitable natural habitat, such as the fringe of a woodland area, away from human residences or agricultural land. Verify that the release is not happening in an area that already hosts a dense population of the species, which could lead to competition for resources.
Exclusion Methods for Long-Term Prevention
After removing the groundhog, implementing physical barriers is the most reliable way to prevent future infestations. Groundhogs are skilled diggers and climbers, necessitating a robust fencing system. A fence should be constructed with heavy-gauge wire mesh at least three feet high to discourage climbing.
To counter their digging ability, the bottom of the fence must be secured beneath the soil line. Burying the mesh a foot deep is effective, but a more economical method involves creating an “L-footer.” This requires bending the bottom 10 to 12 inches of the wire mesh outward at a 90-degree angle and burying it just beneath the surface. This horizontal wire apron deters the groundhog when it attempts to dig directly down next to the fence.