Saving garlic for planting, often referred to as managing “seed garlic,” is a sequential process beginning immediately after harvest. The primary goal is to preserve the genetic integrity of a chosen variety while maintaining the viability of the cloves for the next growing season. Successfully saving garlic requires controlling moisture and temperature to keep the bulbs dormant and disease-free until the ideal fall planting window. This careful management ensures the cloves retain the necessary energy reserves to produce large, healthy bulbs the following year.
Selecting and Curing Garlic for Viability
The first step in saving garlic involves a rigorous selection process right at the time of harvest. Only the largest, firmest, and most symmetrical bulbs should be set aside for planting stock. Discarding any bulbs that are soft, split, or show signs of disease or damage is important, as these imperfections can compromise the entire stored batch. Choosing the best bulbs ensures that the most desirable traits are propagated in the next generation.
Once selected, the garlic bulbs must undergo a process called curing, which seals the neck and dries the outer paper wrappers. Curing typically requires placing the unwashed bulbs in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated area, away from direct sunlight. Excellent airflow is necessary during this time to prevent mold and rot.
This drying period usually lasts between two and four weeks. Curing is complete when the outer wrappers are dry and papery, the neck feels constricted, and the center of the stem is hard. Properly cured bulbs are protected from pathogens and will store significantly longer.
Maintaining Dormancy: The Ideal Storage Environment
After curing, the long-term storage environment must be precisely managed to keep the bulbs dormant until planting. The most suitable temperature range for seed garlic storage is approximately 50°F to 60°F (10°C to 15°C). Temperatures significantly higher than this range will cause the bulbs to shrivel and deteriorate quickly due to excessive moisture loss.
Temperatures that are too cold, particularly in the 40°F to 50°F range, can prematurely break the garlic’s natural dormancy. This temperature band can mimic the cold stratification period (vernalization) that garlic needs, leading to internal sprouting and a condition known as “witches’ brooming” when planted. Storing bulbs in a typical home refrigerator is generally not advised, as the high humidity and cool temperature can encourage mold growth and early sprouting.
Maintaining moderate relative humidity, ideally between 50 and 70 percent, is equally important for successful storage. If the humidity drops too low, the cloves will dry out and shrivel. Conversely, excessive humidity encourages fungal growth and rot, which can quickly spread through the stored bulbs.
The storage area also requires continuous air circulation to prevent moisture from stagnating around the bulbs. Suitable methods for storage include hanging the bulbs in mesh bags or placing them in a single layer on open racks or in well-ventilated crates. Periodic inspection of the stored seed garlic is necessary to identify and remove any bulbs that show signs of spoilage, thereby protecting the rest of the batch.
Final Preparation of Cloves Before Planting
The final step involves separating the bulbs into individual cloves just prior to planting. It is important not to break the bulbs apart until one to two days before they will be placed in the ground, as the bulb’s papery wrapper helps protect the individual cloves from moisture loss and disease. Separating them too early can cause the cloves to dry out.
When cracking the bulbs, the gardener should only select the largest, firmest, and most robust outer cloves for planting. These larger cloves contain greater energy reserves, which correlate directly to a larger, healthier bulb at the next harvest. The small, interior cloves, often referred to as “rounds,” should be used for cooking.
Care must be taken to keep the protective papery wrapper intact on each selected clove, especially around the basal plate where the roots will emerge. Cloves with damaged or missing wrappers should be set aside, as they are more susceptible to soil-borne pathogens and decay after planting. Some growers choose to briefly soak their cloves in water for a few hours before planting to rehydrate them or use a pre-planting treatment to help deter certain soil pathogens.