The Easter Lily, Lilium longiflorum, is a symbol of spring traditionally forced to bloom indoors for the holiday. The large, trumpet-shaped white flowers grow from a perennial bulb that can be saved and replanted for years of enjoyment. Although typically grown in a greenhouse environment for a specific bloom schedule, the bulb retains its natural life cycle and can successfully be returned to a garden setting. Saving the bulb requires allowing the plant to naturally store energy before entering its dormant period. This process outlines how to transition your holiday plant into a hardy garden perennial for future blooms.
Immediate Care After Flowering Stops
The moment the last flower fades, immediately remove the spent blossoms (deadheading). This prevents the plant from expending energy on producing seeds, diverting that energy instead to the underground bulb. Leave the green stem and all the foliage completely intact, even if it starts to look less appealing.
The green leaves use photosynthesis to create and transfer starches and sugars down to the bulb for next season’s growth. To support this process, continue to water the plant regularly, ensuring the soil remains evenly moist but not waterlogged. Begin a light feeding regimen, applying a dilute, half-strength liquid fertilizer once or twice a month to replenish nutrients lost during the forced blooming period.
As temperatures warm, acclimate the potted lily to the outdoors by placing it in a protected, partly shaded area for a few days. Once acclimated, move the plant to a location with bright, indirect sunlight, or a spot that receives full morning sun and afternoon shade. This outdoor environment allows the foliage to photosynthesize efficiently throughout the late spring and summer months, which is the active period for the bulb to recharge.
Transitioning the Bulb to Dormancy
The transition to dormancy is a gradual process that occurs once the bulb has stored sufficient energy. This phase typically begins in late summer or early fall, signaled by the foliage beginning to yellow and wilt. Do not cut back the stem or leaves while they are still green, as this robs the bulb of actively absorbed energy.
As the leaves turn yellow and brown, gradually reduce the frequency of watering. The reduction in moisture signals to the bulb that it is time to prepare for its winter rest. When the entire stalk and foliage have turned completely yellow or brown and feel dry and brittle, all remaining nutrients have successfully moved to the bulb.
At this point, cut the dead stem down to the soil level, leaving no more than an inch remaining. The plant is now dormant and ready for overwintering, either in the ground or in storage. This timing ensures maximum energy reserves are available for the following growing season.
Overwintering and Storage Techniques
The method for overwintering depends on your local climate and USDA Hardiness Zone. In areas where the ground does not freeze deeply or consistently (generally Zones 4 through 8), the bulb can remain in the ground over winter. If leaving it in the garden, apply a deep layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded leaves, four to six inches thick over the planting area before the first hard freeze to insulate the bulb.
For gardeners in colder regions, or those who kept the lily in a small pot, the bulb must be lifted for indoor storage to prevent freezing and rotting. After the foliage is cut back, carefully dig up the bulb, shake off loose soil, and allow it to air-dry in a cool, well-ventilated area for several days. Once dry, gently clean the bulb, removing any remaining dirt or damaged roots, and check for signs of mold or rot.
To protect the bulb during its rest period, lightly dust it with a fungicidal powder or powdered sulfur to prevent infections. Place the cleaned bulbs in a breathable container, such as a cardboard box or paper bag. Layer them with a dry, insulating medium like peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust that discourages moisture buildup. Store the container in a dark location where the temperature remains stable between 35°F and 45°F, such as a cool basement or unheated garage.
Replanting for the Next Growing Season
The dormancy period ends when you replant the bulb, which should be done in late fall or in early spring once the ground is workable. If stored indoors, plant it outdoors about two to four weeks before the last expected frost date. Select a permanent location that receives full sun or partial shade, ensuring the soil is well-drained to prevent bulb rot.
Dig a hole approximately six to eight inches deep, which is about three times the height of the bulb. Place the bulb pointed-side up, cover it with soil, and water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots. If planting multiple bulbs, space them at least 12 to 18 inches apart to allow for mature growth.
While the original plant was forced to bloom for the holiday, the replanted bulb will return to its natural summer blooming cycle. Expect flowers to appear in June or July of the following year, rather than precisely at Easter time. Proper replanting depth and the successful completion of the chilling period ensure the bulb is ready to initiate new growth.