Lifting and storing daffodil bulbs, often called “curing,” ensures healthy blooms in subsequent seasons. This process is generally performed to manage overcrowding, which can diminish flowering, or to relocate bulbs. Storing the bulbs over the summer also allows for the inspection and removal of diseased specimens before they can infect others. Managing the post-flowering period preserves the genetic material of favorite varieties.
When and How to Lift Daffodil Bulbs
The timing of the lift depends on the plant’s natural cycle of energy storage, not the calendar date. Gardeners must wait until the daffodil foliage has completely yellowed and begun to wither, typically six to eight weeks after the flowers have faded. This decline indicates that photosynthesis is complete, and maximum energy has been transferred back into the bulb for next year’s growth. Removing green leaves prematurely interrupts this transfer, resulting in a weak or “blind” bulb that will not flower the following spring.
To retrieve the bulbs, insert a garden fork several inches away from the clump of faded foliage. This wide margin avoids slicing or damaging the bulbs, which can introduce pathogens and cause rot during storage. Gently loosen the soil by applying downward pressure on the fork handle, then carefully lift the entire clump. Leave the withered foliage attached to the bulb during the lift, as this provides a handle for easy removal.
Cleaning and Curing the Bulbs
Once the bulbs are out of the ground, remove any excess soil clinging to the root mass. Gently shaking or brushing the bulbs with your hands or a soft brush will dislodge the dirt. If the foliage is completely dry and brown, it can be gently twisted off at the neck. Avoid pulling or tearing the papery tunic, as this can create an open wound.
Smaller offsets, or “baby bulbs,” loosely attached to the main bulb can be separated for future planting. The bulbs must then be laid out in a single layer in a warm, dry, shaded location for one to two weeks to begin curing. Curing allows the outer layers to thoroughly dry and harden, which seals the bulb and makes it resistant to fungal infections and rot during storage.
Creating Optimal Storage Conditions
After the bulbs have cured and the outer skin feels dry and papery, they are ready for summer storage in a dormant environment. Ideal conditions involve a cool, dark, and dry space with good air circulation. A consistent temperature between 50°F and 65°F (10°C to 18°C) prevents premature sprouting or damage. Avoid high humidity, as moisture encourages mold and basal rot fungus, which can quickly destroy the stored stock.
Store the bulbs in breathable containers that prevent moisture buildup and allow air to circulate freely. Suitable options include mesh bags, brown paper bags, or cardboard boxes; plastic bags should be avoided entirely. The bulbs can be nestled in a dry medium like vermiculite, peat moss, or sawdust. This helps absorb residual moisture, cushions the bulbs, and prevents them from touching one another.
Periodic inspection of the stored bulbs throughout the summer months catches signs of spoilage early. If a bulb shows dark spots, soft areas, or visible mold, remove it immediately to prevent the spread of disease to healthy stock. Maintaining a dry, consistent temperature is important, as fluctuations or freezing temperatures can compromise the bulb’s internal structure and viability.
Preparing Bulbs for Replanting
Before the fall planting season, the stored bulbs require a final health check. Each bulb should be firm to the touch; discard any specimens that have developed soft spots or a musty odor. This inspection prevents carrying fungal diseases into the garden soil.
If there are minor signs of superficial fungus or if the bulbs came from a diseased area, dust them with a commercial fungicide or elemental sulfur powder. This protective coating discourages the development of rot once the bulbs are reintroduced to moist soil. The optimal time for replanting daffodils is in the autumn, allowing them time to establish a root system before the ground freezes. Plant bulbs with the pointed end facing up, at a depth two to three times the height of the bulb.