Scorched, brown patches, often called “burnt grass,” signal that the turf has experienced severe stress. This discoloration is a visible defense mechanism where the plant conserves energy by shutting down above-ground growth. Homeowners must accurately determine the extent of the damage, differentiating between grass that is merely resting and grass that is permanently dead. This assessment dictates the repair strategy, moving from simple recovery actions to intensive renovation methods to restore a green, healthy turf.
Determining if the Grass is Truly Dead
Before implementing any repair strategy, assess whether the brown grass is truly dead or just dormant. Dormancy is a natural survival response where grass turns brown to conserve resources during periods of heat or drought. The simplest method for assessing life is the “tug test”: gently pull on a few blades of the brown grass. If the blades resist and stay firmly rooted, the plant is likely dormant and salvageable.
If the grass pulls out easily, its root system has failed, indicating the turf is dead. A more precise check involves examining the crown, the white or creamy-colored growing point located at the base of the grass blade, right at the soil line. A crown that is firm and still white or light tan suggests the plant is alive. Conversely, a crown that is brown, brittle, or shriveled means the grass is permanently non-viable and requires full replacement.
Restoring Stressed Grass
For grass determined to be alive but stressed or dormant, focus on mitigating the stressor and supporting recovery. If the burn is due to heat or drought, the turf requires deep, infrequent watering to encourage deep root growth. Provide approximately one to one and a half inches of water per week, applied in one or two sessions. This deep soaking helps roots penetrate deeper into the soil, enhancing resilience, and is more effective than light, daily sprinkling.
If brown patches are caused by chemical exposure, such as over-fertilization or pet waste, the immediate treatment is a “flushing” process. Apply a large volume of water to the affected area to dilute concentrated salts and nitrogen, washing them deeper into the soil profile away from the root zone. Perform a thorough soaking daily for three to four days to leach excess nutrients. During recovery, avoid granular fertilizer applications, and raise the mowing height to the highest setting to allow blades to shade the soil and reduce moisture evaporation.
Lawn Repair Strategies
When the assessment confirms the grass is permanently dead, the area requires renovation, starting with preparing the bare soil. Remove the dead plant material by vigorously raking the patch or using a dethatching tool to ensure new seed or sod has direct contact with the soil. Next, loosen the soil surface with a hand rake or aerate it to relieve compaction, which allows new roots to penetrate and water to move effectively. Adding a thin layer of topsoil or compost can improve the soil structure and nutrient content.
The two primary repair methods are seeding/patching or laying sod. Overseeding is more cost-effective, especially for larger areas, and allows selection of grass varieties suited to the site. New grass seed must be kept consistently moist through frequent, light watering until the seedlings are established. Sod provides an instant lawn, ideal for high-visibility or high-traffic areas, but it is more expensive and requires meticulous soil preparation. New sod must be watered deeply and consistently for the first few weeks to promote rooting.
Targeting the Root Cause to Stop Future Damage
Over-Fertilization
Over-fertilization, characterized by brown streaks or defined patches, is often caused by improper spreader calibration or uneven application. Use a drop spreader rather than a rotary spreader, and ensure the product is applied at the manufacturer’s recommended rate to prevent chemical burn.
Pet Waste
Pet waste, specifically dog urine, causes a nitrogen burn due to its high concentration of nitrogen salts. To mitigate this, immediately hose down the area where the dog urinates to dilute the nitrogen, or train the pet to use a designated area covered with mulch or gravel.
Heat and Drought Stress
For heat and drought stress, which results in uniform browning, raise the mower height during hot periods. Taller blades shade the soil and maintain cooler root temperatures. Limiting foot traffic on stressed or dormant grass also reduces physical damage, allowing the turf to recover naturally.