Succulents are popular for indoor gardening due to their unique shapes and hardiness. Even these drought-tolerant plants can show signs of distress. When a succulent begins to fail, the first step is assessing the symptoms to determine the cause. Understanding the specific problem is the only way to apply the correct rescue method.
Diagnosing the Succulent’s Distress Signals
The most common signs of distress relate to either too much or too little water. Overwatering causes the leaves to appear soft, mushy, and translucent, often turning yellow or black. The plant’s internal water storage cells swell and burst, leading to a compromised structure that feels wet to the touch. This condition is dangerous because it quickly leads to fungal growth and root rot.
In contrast, an underwatered succulent will show wrinkled, shriveled, and dry leaves, especially on the lower parts of the plant, as it consumes stored water reserves. The leaves may also become limp and soft, but they will not be mushy or translucent. Another sign of thirst can be the appearance of aerial roots on the stem, which the plant grows to absorb moisture from the air.
Lack of sufficient light presents symptoms known as etiolation. The plant will stretch dramatically, with an elongated stem and widely spaced leaves, as it strains to find a light source. This new growth is often pale, weak, and less colorful than the older, compact growth. Identifying the correct visual cue—mushy versus wrinkled, or compact versus stretched—is the foundation for rescue.
Emergency Rescue Steps for Root Rot
When diagnosis confirms mushy and translucent leaves, the plant is likely suffering from root rot, requiring immediate intervention. Gently remove the succulent from its pot and shake off all the old soil, which is often contaminated with fungal spores. Healthy roots are firm and white or light tan, while rotten roots are dark brown or black, slimy, and may emit a foul odor.
Using a clean, sharp, and sterilized tool, cut away all infected parts of the root system and any soft, discolored stem tissue. It is imperative to remove all the rot, cutting back to where the tissue appears firm and healthy. Once the cuts are made, the plant must be left in a dry, well-ventilated location out of direct sunlight for two to five days.
This drying period allows the cut surfaces to “callous,” forming a protective, dry scab that prevents new infections when the plant is repotted. After callousing, the succulent can be placed in a new pot with fresh, dry, well-draining cactus or succulent soil mix. Avoid watering the plant for the first week or two to encourage new root growth without risking a relapse.
Adjusting Care for Dehydration and Light Issues
If the succulent is shriveled and wrinkled from underwatering, the solution is simpler and less invasive than treating root rot. A deeply dehydrated plant should be watered thoroughly using the “soak and dry” method until water flows freely from the drainage holes. For extremely dry soil mixes that have become hydrophobic, bottom-watering by placing the pot in a shallow tray of water for an hour ensures the entire root ball is saturated. The plant should be allowed to dry completely before the next watering, but the leaves should begin to plump up noticeably within 24 to 48 hours if the roots are healthy.
Addressing etiolation, or stretching due to low light, requires a gradual change to prevent sunburn. The thin, pale tissue of an etiolated plant is susceptible to scorching if moved suddenly into intense sun. The plant should be moved incrementally to a brighter spot, increasing its light exposure over several days or weeks. One method suggests increasing direct light exposure by just 30 minutes every few days to allow the plant’s cells to adapt.
While the stretched growth cannot return to its compact form, the gradual light increase ensures that all new growth will be healthy and tightly stacked. Once the new growth is compact, the stretched portion can be removed if desired. This removal involves a technique called “beheading,” which restores a pleasing shape and is a form of propagation.
Propagating Healthy Cuttings as a Last Resort
When a succulent is too compromised, such as when rot has consumed the entire stem, the final option is to save the healthy parts through propagation. This involves taking cuttings from the undamaged portions, typically the top rosette, or carefully removing plump, healthy leaves. To “behead” the plant, a clean cut is made several inches above the rot or stretched area, ensuring the cutting has a small section of stem attached.
The next step for both stem cuttings and individual leaves is callousing, where the cut end dries out and forms a protective barrier. The healthy pieces should be left on a dry surface in a warm area with indirect light for three to seven days until a dry skin forms over the wound. Planting a cutting before it is fully calloused risks immediate rot upon contact with soil moisture.
Once the callous is firm, the cutting can be planted in dry, well-draining soil, or the leaves can be placed on the soil surface. New roots will eventually sprout from the calloused end, often within a few weeks. The cutting should not be watered until these roots have formed, as the plant relies on its stored water for initial establishment.