Succulents are known for their resilience, but they can signal distress when their environment is unbalanced. Recognizing these signals quickly and responding with targeted interventions is necessary to save a struggling plant. This guide provides a framework for diagnosing common issues and establishing long-term health.
Diagnosing the Distress: What’s Wrong With My Succulent?
Proper diagnosis relies on understanding the visual cues your plant displays. Overwatering, the most frequent cause of death, manifests as translucent, yellowing, soft, or mushy leaves. These leaves are oversaturated and may drop off easily. If the problem is advanced, the stem may turn black or dark brown as the plant tissue starts to rot.
In contrast, an underwatered plant exhibits a different texture and appearance. The leaves will appear shriveled, wrinkled, or puckered because the internal water storage has been depleted. While the leaves are soft, they are not mushy or translucent and feel deflated. This indicates the plant is drawing moisture from its own leaves and requires hydration.
Light problems also create distinct visual symptoms. Etiolation occurs when a plant stretches unnaturally toward a light source, resulting in pale, sparse growth with significant space between the leaves. This stretching is irreversible and indicates a lack of adequate light intensity. Sunburn appears as white, brown, or black scorched patches on the leaves, which are permanent scars indicating the plant was exposed to harsh, direct light too quickly.
Crisis Intervention: Treating Root Rot and Severe Damage
When overwatering is suspected, the plant must be unpotted immediately to check for root rot. Healthy succulent roots are firm and white or light yellow. Rotted roots are dark brown or black, soft, and often have a foul odor. If rot is present, carefully remove all the existing soil from the root ball, rinsing gently under running water if necessary.
Using a clean, sterilized blade, prune away all damaged, mushy root tissue and any portion of the stem showing discoloration. Cut slightly above the visible rot line to ensure all infected tissue is removed. Allow the plant to air-dry for several days in a well-ventilated area, keeping it out of direct sun. This callousing period lets the cut tissue dry out and form a protective barrier, preventing new infection when the plant is repotted.
If the rot is so extensive that the entire stem is mushy, beheading the plant is necessary. Cut the stem well above the rot line until only healthy, clean tissue remains. This healthy section can then be allowed to callous and rooted as a new plant. Once a firm, dry callous has formed, repot the plant into fresh, completely dry, well-draining soil. Do not water the newly repotted plant for at least a week to encourage new root growth.
Correcting Common Environmental Issues
For plants suffering from severe dehydration, a deep, thorough watering is the first step toward recovery. Fully saturate the soil using the “soak and dry” method until water runs freely from the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root system receives moisture, and the plant should begin to plump up within a few days. If the soil has become hydrophobic (repels water), a 30-minute bottom soak in a tray of water can help rehydrate the soil medium.
If a plant is etiolated, the stretched growth cannot be reversed, but future growth can be corrected by increasing light exposure. Move the plant to a location with significantly brighter light, such as a south-facing window or under a strong grow light, to promote compact, healthy new leaves. For a plant scorched by sunburn, the damaged patches are permanent and will not heal. Immediately move the plant to a spot with bright, indirect light. If moving it outdoors, introduce it to direct sun gradually over several weeks to allow it to acclimate.
Establishing a Healthy Care Routine
Preventing future crises begins with ensuring the plant is in an appropriate growing medium. Succulents require a gritty, fast-draining soil mix that mimics arid environments, allowing the roots to dry out quickly. An ideal mix consists of approximately two-thirds inorganic material (like pumice, perlite, or coarse sand) combined with one-third organic potting soil. Standard potting soil or mixes high in peat moss retain too much moisture and should be avoided.
The container must have at least one drainage hole. Terracotta pots are often preferred because their porous nature allows excess moisture to evaporate through the sides, promoting faster soil drying.
When watering, always employ the “soak and dry” technique. This involves completely saturating the soil until water flows out the bottom, and then allowing the soil to dry out completely before watering again. To check for dryness, insert a wooden skewer deep into the soil and only water if it comes out clean and dry, or wait until the leaves show subtle signs of thirst.
Providing sufficient light is necessary for robust health, with most succulents preferring several hours of bright, direct sunlight daily. Indoors, this means a south-facing window or supplementing natural light with specialized grow lights to maintain the plant’s compact shape.