Felling a tree with a chainsaw is one of the most hazardous activities in property maintenance, presenting a significant risk of severe injury or death. The sheer force of a falling tree, combined with the power of the saw itself, demands absolute precision and strict adherence to established safety protocols. This process should never be attempted without a thorough understanding of the mechanics involved and the potential for catastrophic failure. While this guide provides detailed information, individuals without formal training are strongly encouraged to consult a certified arborist or take a professional course.
Pre-Felling Assessment and Planning
Before the chainsaw is even started, a comprehensive assessment of the tree and its surroundings must be completed to ensure a controlled fall. The first step involves determining the tree’s natural lean, which is influenced by wind, terrain, and the distribution of the crown’s branches. Using a plumb line helps gauge the exact direction of this lean, as felling a tree against its natural lean significantly increases the risk of a “barber chair” split or directional failure.
The tree’s height must be accurately estimated to establish a safety perimeter, which should extend to at least two times the tree’s height in the direction of the planned fall. The trunk must also be inspected for physical hazards such as rot, deep cracks, or disease that could cause the tree to unpredictably break apart during the cut. Dead branches, often called “widow-makers,” must also be noted, as they can dislodge and fall on the operator during the felling process.
Once the target drop zone is confirmed to be clear of structures and utility lines, the operator must meticulously plan the escape route. This route is not a straight line away from the tree but rather two distinct paths angled approximately 45 degrees away from the planned line of fall and to the side of the stump. Clearing these paths of all debris, brush, and tripping hazards is a non-negotiable step because felling accidents often occur within the first few seconds of the tree beginning to move. The necessity of a clear, immediate retreat path is underscored by the fact that most felling accidents happen within 15 seconds of the fall and within 5 feet of the stump.
Essential Safety Gear and Chainsaw Handling
Personal protection begins with wearing the correct specialized safety gear designed to mitigate the specific risks associated with chainsaw use. Chainsaw protective trousers or chaps are mandatory, as they contain layers of ballistic nylon or Kevlar fibers intended to snag and jam the saw chain upon contact, instantly stopping the movement. Head protection is provided by a helmet system that incorporates a hard hat to guard against falling debris, integrated ear protection against the high decibel output of the engine, and a wire mesh visor to shield the face from flying wood chips.
The operator’s footwear should consist of steel-toed boots with non-slip soles, offering protection from rolling logs. Heavy-duty work gloves must also be worn to maintain a secure grip and dampen vibration. Before starting the engine, the chainsaw itself requires a safety check, including verifying proper fuel and chain oil levels, ensuring the chain is sharp, and confirming that the chain brake is fully functional.
Proper physical technique is equally important for maintaining control and preventing kickback, which is the sudden, violent upward and backward thrust of the saw when the tip of the guide bar contacts an object. The operator must stand in a balanced, stable stance with feet shoulder-width apart, ensuring the body is not directly behind the saw’s cutting path. A two-handed grip is always maintained, with the thumb of the front hand securely wrapped around the handle to prevent the saw from being thrown upward during a kickback event.
Executing the Felling Cuts
The directional felling process begins with the creation of the face notch, also known as the directional cut, on the side of the tree facing the intended line of fall. The most recommended method is the open-face notch, which typically consists of two cuts that form an angle of 60 to 80 degrees. The first cut is made horizontally into the trunk, extending approximately one-third of the tree’s diameter.
The second cut is a downward-sloping cut that meets the first cut precisely, creating a clean wedge that can be removed. This precise meeting point, known as the apex, ensures the tree will fall accurately in the desired direction. If the cuts do not meet cleanly, the resulting hinge will be compromised, leading to a loss of directional control.
The next step involves the hinge, which is the uncut wood remaining between the face notch and the back cut. This hinge is the mechanical component that guides the tree’s descent and must be maintained uniformly across the entire trunk. For a controlled fall, the hinge thickness should be approximately one-tenth of the tree’s diameter.
The final cut is the back cut, or felling cut, which is performed on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. This cut must be horizontal and placed one to two inches above the horizontal cut of the face notch, a technique known as creating a “stump shot.” This slight elevation prevents the tree from moving backward off the stump, which is a dangerous scenario known as “kickback” of the butt of the tree.
As the back cut approaches the hinge, the operator should insert felling wedges into the cut to prevent the saw bar from becoming pinched by the weight of the tree. These wedges are then driven in to help overcome the tree’s natural lean and initiate the fall. As soon as the tree begins to move, the operator must immediately remove the saw, engage the chain brake, and quickly retreat along the pre-planned 45-degree escape path, continuously monitoring the falling trunk until it strikes the ground.
Handling the Fallen Tree and Hazards
Once the tree is safely on the ground, the work shifts to processing the wood through limbing (removing all branches) and bucking (cutting the main trunk into manageable lengths). The operator should always work from the uphill side of the trunk to prevent the log from rolling unexpectedly.
A significant hazard in processing fallen trees is understanding the forces of tension and compression within the wood, particularly in bent or partially supported logs. When a log is resting on uneven ground or other debris, the wood on the underside of the bend is under compression, and the wood on the top side is under tension. Cutting the tension side can cause the log to violently snap or spring apart.
This hazard is most pronounced in “spring poles,” which are small trees or branches held under extreme, explosive tension by the weight of the fallen tree. To release this stored energy safely, the operator must make shallow, careful cuts by shaving the compression wood (the inside of the bend) to gradually weaken the fiber. This slow process allows the tension to release safely, preventing the wood from whipping back with sudden force.
Finally, a tree that has fallen but become caught in the branches of another tree is known as a “hang-up,” which is extremely unstable and presents an unpredictable hazard. An operator must never attempt to resolve a hung-up tree by cutting the one that is holding it, as this can cause the suspended tree to slide, swing, or fall in an uncontrolled manner. The only safe methods for addressing a hang-up involve using specialized mechanical equipment like a winch or tractor, or immediately calling a professional logging service for removal.