Cutting down a leaning tree presents unique and serious hazards that demand extreme caution and specialized techniques. Unlike a straight tree, a leaner is already under immense internal stress, which significantly increases the risk of an unpredictable fall. This is known as “barber-chairing,” where the trunk splits vertically and kicks back off the stump. This guide is intended only for trees with small, manageable leans that are healthy and away from structures or power lines. If the tree has a severe lean, shows signs of rot or decay, or is close to any high-value target, it is imperative to hire a certified arborist or timber faller, as the danger is too high for a non-professional.
Preliminary Assessment and Safety Protocol
Before any cutting begins, a thorough assessment of the tree and the surrounding environment must be completed. Determining the exact direction and severity of the tree’s lean is the first step, often accomplished using a plumb bob, which is simply a string with a weight, to establish a true vertical line against the trunk and crown. This visual reference helps to quantify the lean and confirm the tree’s center of mass. A severe lean is often considered more than five feet off-plumb, which typically requires professional intervention.
The target drop zone must be clearly identified and marked, ensuring the tree has a clear path to the ground without hitting any obstacles. Once the intended direction of fall is set, a minimum of two clear escape routes must be established at approximately a 135-degree angle away from the line of fall. These paths should be cleared of all brush, debris, and tripping hazards for at least 15 to 20 feet, allowing for a swift and unimpeded retreat immediately after the final cut. Personal safety equipment is non-negotiable and includes a helmet with a face shield and hearing protection, cut-resistant gloves, and chainsaw chaps or trousers designed to stop a moving chain upon contact.
Essential Equipment and Site Preparation
Successful and safe felling of a leaning tree relies on having specialized non-chainsaw tools ready at the base of the trunk. Felling wedges, typically made of plastic or aluminum, are necessary to prevent the saw bar from getting pinched by the tree’s weight during the back cut, and they also help to gently guide the tree in the intended direction. For trees with a slight back lean or to ensure the fall direction, specialized mechanical aids are needed, such as a hand-operated winch (commonly called a come-along) or a felling jack, which can apply significant, controlled force from a safe distance.
Site preparation involves ensuring the ground around the tree’s base is stable and firm enough for the operator to maintain solid footing. The area where the saw cuts will be made should be cleared so the operator can move around the tree without stepping over obstacles. Having all necessary tools—wedges, hammer, pulling aids, and extra fuel—placed within easy reach, but not in the escape path, streamlines the process and prevents the distraction of searching for equipment during the high-stress moment of the cut.
Specialized Cutting Techniques for Controlling the Lean
Felling a leaning tree requires a modification of the traditional three-part cutting sequence: the face cut, the hinge, and the back cut.
The Face Cut
The face cut, also called the notch, is made on the side of the tree facing the intended direction of fall. It should be deep enough to allow the tree to fall without the notch closing prematurely. For a tree with a pronounced lean, the notch should be slightly wider than usual to prevent the hinge from tearing prematurely, which can lead to a dangerous, uncontrolled fall.
The Hinge
The hinge, the section of uncut wood remaining between the notch and the back cut, is the most important element for controlling the direction and speed of the fall. The hinge length should be approximately 80% of the tree’s diameter, with a thickness of roughly 10% of the diameter. For a leaner, maintaining a slightly thicker hinge is often safer. This holding wood acts as a pivot, guiding the tree down the intended path and preventing the explosive vertical split known as “barber-chairing.”
The Back Cut (Bore Cut)
The back cut, which releases the tree, must be executed using the bore cut, or plunge cut, technique, which provides more control than a traditional straight-in cut. The bore cut is initiated by plunging the bottom quadrant of the running saw bar into the trunk, well behind the planned hinge line. This technique allows the operator to cut out the majority of the wood to establish the hinge thickness and insert felling wedges before severing the small remaining strap of holding wood at the back of the trunk.
By using the bore cut, the wedges can be driven in to start lifting the tree before the final, releasing cut is made, ensuring the tree is forced down the hinge line. This technique maintains a strap of uncut wood at the back, which holds the tree until the operator is ready to complete the fall from a safe position along the escape route. The final release cut severs this strap, allowing the wedges and the tree’s natural momentum to take over, sending the tree down the pre-determined path with maximum control.
Safely Addressing Hang-Ups and Unpredictable Falls
Even with the most careful planning, a tree may unexpectedly fail to fall completely, resulting in a dangerous “hang-up” where the trunk is lodged in the crown of a neighboring tree. The absolute rule in this situation is to never cut the supporting tree, nor should anyone attempt to climb the hung-up tree to free it. These actions can release the massive stored energy of the hang-up, causing an unpredictable and potentially fatal accident.
The safest recovery methods involve applying mechanical force from a distance using specialized equipment. A rope-operated come-along or a robust winch can be attached high up on the hung-up tree’s trunk or a sturdy limb and anchored to a solid, separate tree, allowing the operator to pull the tree free while standing well clear of the danger zone. Another option is the use of a specialized felling jack, which can be placed strategically to push the tree off its support.
If the saw becomes pinched during the back cut, the operator should immediately stop the saw and use a felling wedge to open the cut slightly, releasing the pressure on the bar before carefully extracting the saw. Any situation where the trunk splits prematurely, the tree unexpectedly shifts, or heavy winds begin to blow demands an immediate halt to all operations. Retreat and call a professional arborist with the appropriate heavy equipment to complete the removal.