A tree with a significant lean presents a serious hazard when removal is necessary. Felling a leaning trunk is considered one of the most dangerous chainsaw operations due to the immense, uneven forces held within the wood fibers. A leaning tree’s center of gravity is offset from the base, creating powerful tension and compression within the trunk. This stored energy means any misstep can result in the trunk suddenly splitting, kicking back, or falling uncontrollably. Planning and strict adherence to safety protocols are mandatory, starting with a thorough assessment to determine if the job is within the limits of a non-professional.
Determining the Safety Threshold for DIY Removal
Before any cut is made, a person must realistically assess the task against their skill level and the tree’s inherent hazards. Any tree removal that involves a lean over 15 degrees, particularly if the lean is against the desired felling direction, should automatically necessitate calling a certified arborist. Another disqualifying factor is if the tree’s diameter exceeds the length of the chainsaw guide bar, as this complicates the safe execution of advanced cutting techniques. The presence of disease, significant rot, or large, dead limbs, sometimes called “widow makers,” also increases the risk beyond the scope of a typical do-it-yourself project.
If the tree is near power lines, structures, or any objects that would be damaged by an unexpected fall, professional assistance is the only safe option. If the tree is leaning heavily and requires mechanical assistance, such as a winch or heavy-duty pulling rope, an arborist should be hired. A certified arborist carries specialized insurance and has the training to manage these high-risk scenarios. If there is doubt about the tree’s stability or the ability to precisely control the fall, an experienced professional must be contacted.
Site Preparation and Essential Safety Gear
Proper preparation begins with securing the correct personal protective equipment (PPE), which is non-negotiable for chainsaw work. This mandatory equipment includes:
- A safety helmet to protect against falling debris.
- Eye protection.
- Hearing protection to guard against the 110-decibel noise level of a running saw.
- Cut-resistant chainsaw chaps or pants, which contain ballistic fibers designed to instantly stop the saw chain upon contact.
- Steel-toed or leather boots for foot protection.
The area around the trunk must be cleared of brush, rocks, and debris to ensure stable footing and prevent tripping. A clear escape route must be established and pre-walked, extending 15 to 25 feet away from the tree at a 45-degree angle opposite the intended direction of fall. This route allows the operator to quickly move away from the stump, as most felling injuries occur near the base of the tree.
Before starting the cut, the tree’s height must be calculated to ensure the entire fall zone is clear of people, pets, and property. The chainsaw itself requires a thorough check, verifying the chain brake is functional, the chain is sharp, and the saw is properly fueled. Felling aids, such as specialized plastic or aluminum wedges and a heavy falling axe, must be readily available to drive into the back cut, preventing the saw from being pinched and assisting in directional control.
Specialized Felling Techniques for Leaning Trunks
The greatest danger when felling a leaning tree comes from the unequal distribution of forces within the trunk, creating both tension and compression wood. The side of the tree toward the lean experiences compression, where the wood fibers are crushed together, while the opposite side is under tension, where the fibers are stretched. Cutting into the tension side prematurely is extremely hazardous, as the sudden release of stored energy can cause the tree to violently split vertically up the trunk, a phenomenon known as the “barber chair” effect.
The conventional directional notch, which guides the tree’s fall, must be placed on the compression side of the tree, typically the side the tree is leaning toward. This notch should use an open-face design, often cut to 70 degrees or more, to ensure the hinge remains intact and functional until the tree is fully on the ground. After the notch is established, the hinge, the remaining wood that connects the stump to the tree, must be of uniform thickness to control the direction and speed of the fall.
For leaning trees, the safest method for the back cut is typically the bore cut, also known as a plunge cut, which minimizes the risk of the trunk splitting. The bore cut involves thrusting the tip of the saw bar into the center of the tree at full throttle, slightly behind the desired hinge width. The operator bores in, using the bottom of the bar tip to reduce the chance of dangerous kickback, and then saws horizontally toward the notch to establish the hinge.
This technique allows the operator to create the entire hinge and back cut while leaving a small strap of uncut holding wood at the back of the trunk. This holding wood keeps the tree securely attached to the stump, allowing the cutter to insert wedges into the bore cut or the back cut before the final release. The bore cut establishes the precise dimensions of the hinge, managing massive forces before the final cut is made to release the holding wood.