Removing a vertical tree branch is challenging because gravity increases the risk of the branch peeling bark down the trunk as it separates. This peeling can inflict a severe, non-healing wound on the tree. A safe and methodical approach must be used to mitigate this risk, ensuring a clean cut that preserves the tree’s natural defense mechanisms.
Preparing for the Cut: Safety and Tools
Before approaching the branch, establishing a secure work environment and gathering the correct equipment is necessary for any pruning operation. Working overhead introduces inherent dangers, so personal protective equipment must be used to safeguard against falling debris and tool accidents.
Safety Gear
Safety gear protects the head, eyes, and hands from wood chips and falling limbs. A hard hat protects against unexpected detachment of the branch or pieces of the limb. Eye protection, such as safety glasses or goggles, prevents sawdust and debris from entering the eyes, especially when cutting directly overhead. Durable work gloves maintain a firm grip on tools and protect hands from splinters.
For any work requiring elevation, use a secure, stable ladder placed on level ground. Never stand on the top two rungs of a ladder, and ensure a second person is present to stabilize the base and monitor the work area. Pruning should always be performed from a stable position on the ground or a ladder.
Tool Selection
The appropriate tool depends on the branch’s diameter, which dictates the type of cut required for clean separation. Small branches, less than one inch in diameter, can be removed with bypass pruners or loppers. Bypass loppers are effective for limbs up to about one and a half inches in thickness, providing the leverage needed for a smooth cut.
For any branch exceeding one and a half inches in diameter, a handsaw or pole saw must be used. A sharp handsaw provides the best control for a precise cut when the branch is within easy reach. A pole saw, either manual or powered, allows for cuts on higher branches while keeping the operator safely on the ground.
The Initial Weight Reduction Cuts
The primary goal of the initial cuts is to remove the bulk of the branch’s weight, eliminating the possibility of the bark stripping down the trunk. This is achieved using the first two steps of the standard three-cut method, creating a break point away from the main trunk. This technique is necessary for any branch greater than one inch in diameter.
The first cut, known as the undercut, is made on the underside of the branch, approximately 12 to 18 inches away from the trunk or the branch collar. This cut should penetrate about one-third of the way through the limb’s diameter. The undercut acts as a stop-point, ensuring that if the branch tears, the rip will not continue into the trunk bark.
The second cut, the top cut, is made a few inches further out from the trunk than the undercut. This cut is made from the top of the branch down until the limb’s weight causes it to break away. Once the branch separates, the bulk of the weight falls safely to the ground, leaving behind a short, manageable stub, approximately 12 to 18 inches long, ready for the final pruning cut.
Making the Final Pruning Cut Near the Trunk
With the main weight of the branch removed, the remaining stub is pruned with a single, precise cut that promotes the tree’s long-term health. The final cut’s placement is determined by two anatomical features: the branch collar and the branch bark ridge. These structures are the tree’s natural defense zone, containing specialized tissue that facilitates the compartmentalization of decay in trees.
The branch bark ridge is a raised strip of rough, darker bark that forms on the upper side of the junction where the branch meets the trunk. The branch collar is the slightly swollen ring of tissue located at the base of the branch, often visible on the underside. These two features outline the area that must be preserved to allow the tree to seal the wound.
The final cut must be made just outside the branch collar, without cutting into or damaging this swollen tissue. The cut should follow the angle of the branch bark ridge on the top side and slope down toward the trunk, ending just outside the collar on the underside. A proper cut leaves the collar intact, allowing the tree to form callus tissue that will eventually seal the wound. Cutting too close to the trunk, known as a flush cut, removes the collar and prevents the tree from properly sealing the wound, leaving it vulnerable.
Knowing When to Hire a Professional
While the three-cut method is reliable for managing small to medium-sized limbs, certain situations require professional help.
Situations Requiring an Arborist
- Any branch located near overhead power lines requires immediate professional attention. Attempting to work near these lines poses an extreme risk of electrocution.
- Branches that are dead, diseased, or structurally unsound present an unpredictable hazard, as internal decay can cause them to break unexpectedly.
- Limbs with a diameter exceeding four to six inches are often too heavy and cumbersome for a single person to manage safely.
- Any task that requires climbing higher than a secure, stable ladder allows or involves cutting over a structure, such as a house or shed.
Certified arborists have the training, insurance, and equipment to manage complex rigging and heavy loads.