A lawn losing color and vitality is a common frustration, but browning does not always signal the end. Revival begins by distinguishing between dead and dormant grass. Dormancy is a survival mechanism where grass turns golden-brown to conserve energy during stress, often caused by drought or temperature extremes. This grass is alive at the root crown and will green up once conditions improve or it receives water. Dead grass appears pale white-brown or grayish, is brittle, and requires replacement.
Identifying the Cause of Decline
Determining the source of decline is necessary before treatment can begin. Look at the pattern of damage; a uniform color change across the entire yard often points to a widespread environmental issue, such as drought or seasonal dormancy. Irregularly shaped patches, circles, or distinct spots usually indicate a localized problem like disease, pests, or chemical burn.
To check the root system’s health, perform a simple “tug test” on brown grass. If the grass resists your pull and stays firmly attached to the soil, the roots are intact, and the grass is likely dormant. If the grass pulls out easily with no resistance, the root system has failed, a sign associated with a grub infestation. Check the soil moisture by pushing a screwdriver or probe into the turf; resistance indicates dry, compacted soil, while a slimy feel suggests overwatering and potential root rot or fungal growth.
Correcting Water and Soil Issues
Improper watering is a frequent cause of lawn decline, leading to shallow roots that struggle during stress. The goal is deep, infrequent watering, aiming to provide about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week to promote root growth down to six to eight inches. Water early in the morning, before 10 a.m., to minimize water loss from evaporation and allow grass blades to dry quickly, reducing the risk of fungal disease.
If water runs off before penetrating the soil, use a “soak and cycle” method. Water for shorter periods, wait an hour for the water to soak in, and then repeat the cycle. Soil compaction, particularly in high-traffic areas, restricts water absorption and root growth and can be addressed through core aeration.
For long-term health, test the soil pH, as turfgrass prefers a slightly acidic to neutral range between 6.2 and 7.0. Use a home testing kit by collecting multiple soil samples from two to four inches deep and mixing them before testing with distilled water for an accurate reading.
Treating Pests and Fungal Infections
Once environmental factors are ruled out, the cause may be biological, requiring targeted intervention. Fungal infections like Brown Patch and Dollar Spot appear as distinct circular patches with irregular edges or silver dollar-sized spots, respectively. These diseases thrive in warm, humid conditions and often require a systemic fungicide treatment applied to the affected areas.
Pest damage, most often caused by white grubs, is confirmed if you find more than five to ten C-shaped larvae per square foot. Since grubs feed on grass roots, the damaged areas will lift easily like a piece of sod. Treating an active infestation requires a targeted insecticide application to stop further root damage. Avoiding late evening watering, which keeps the leaf surface wet overnight, enhances chemical treatment effectiveness.
Repairing Barren or Dead Patches
For areas where the grass is confirmed dead, physical repair is necessary. All dead material must first be removed by raking and loosening the soil. Good seed-to-soil contact is important, so lightly rake the bare soil before application. For small, scattered spots, patching with a seed and mulch mix is an effective method.
For larger areas, reseeding or laying sod are the primary options. Reseeding involves spreading the appropriate grass seed and then lightly covering it with a thin layer of topsoil or starter mulch. New seed requires frequent, light watering—two to three times daily for the first few weeks—to keep the top inch of soil consistently moist until germination.
Laying sod provides an instant patch, but the soil should be excavated slightly so the new sod sits level with the existing lawn. New sod must be soaked thoroughly immediately after installation and kept moist with frequent watering for the first two weeks until the new roots bond with the soil beneath.