A complete lawn restart, often called a renovation, involves eliminating the existing turf and weeds to establish an entirely new stand of grass. This comprehensive approach is necessary when a lawn suffers from severe weed or disease infestation, has significant grading or drainage problems, or is planted with an incompatible grass species for the local climate. Unlike simple overseeding, which only introduces new seed into an existing lawn, a full restart provides a blank canvas to correct long-standing soil and turf issues.
Initial Site Clearing
The complete removal of old vegetation is necessary for a successful restart. Any residual weeds or aggressive existing grass will compete with the new seedlings, compromising the entire project. Homeowners have two primary methods for this clearing: chemical elimination or mechanical removal.
Chemical elimination uses a non-selective herbicide, typically one containing glyphosate, to kill all plant material in the area. The herbicide application should be done on an actively growing lawn. Wait seven to fourteen days for the plant to fully absorb and translocate the chemical before disturbing the area. Safety precautions, such as avoiding application on windy days or near desirable plants, are important to prevent drift.
Mechanical removal avoids chemicals by physically stripping the turf using a sod cutter or a rototiller. A sod cutter slices beneath the root zone, allowing the old turf to be rolled up and removed like a carpet. Tilling rips the grass and churns it directly into the soil, which adds valuable organic matter. However, tilling may also bring dormant weed seeds to the surface. After either method, all remaining debris, including stones and large root clumps, must be raked away to prevent settling issues and create a smooth surface.
Soil Health and Preparation
Once the site is clear, attention must shift to the soil. The most important action at this stage is conducting a professional soil test. Local university extension offices or private labs can perform this test, requiring a composite sample of soil collected from twelve or more random spots across the area, typically sampled to a depth of six inches.
The test results provide specific data on nutrient levels, such as phosphorus and potassium, and the soil’s pH level. Turfgrass generally thrives in a slightly acidic to neutral range, ideally between 6.0 and 7.5. If the pH is too low (acidic), agricultural lime or calcitic lime is applied to raise it. Elemental sulfur is used to lower an overly high (alkaline) pH.
Based on the soil test results, deficient nutrients are amended using specific fertilizers, such as sulfate of potash for low potassium. Any necessary organic matter is incorporated to improve soil structure and water retention. Before planting, the area must be finely graded and leveled to ensure proper water drainage, preventing standing water and directing runoff away from structures.
Choosing and Seeding New Grass
Selecting the correct grass species is an important decision that must align with the local climate and site conditions. Grasses are broadly categorized as either cool-season or warm-season varieties, each with distinct temperature preferences. Cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, fescues, and perennial ryegrass, perform best between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, actively growing in the spring and fall.
Warm-season grasses, including Bermuda, Zoysia, and St. Augustine, prefer hotter climates, with optimal growth occurring between 80 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. These varieties are drought-tolerant and go dormant during cooler winter months. Homeowners in the transitional zone, which experiences both hot summers and cold winters, often select tall fescue or Bermudagrass, which tolerate a wider range of conditions.
Once the appropriate species is selected, the seed or sod is applied to the prepared soil surface. For seeding, a broadcast spreader or drop spreader is used to ensure even distribution. A starter fertilizer, high in phosphorus, is often applied to encourage strong root development in the young seedlings. After spreading, light raking or rolling is necessary to achieve good seed-to-soil contact.
Essential Post-Planting Care
The initial care immediately following planting is important for germination and establishment. The primary focus is maintaining consistent moisture in the top layer of soil where the seeds are resting. For newly seeded areas, the soil surface should be kept continuously moist, but not saturated, often requiring light watering two to three times per day. This short, frequent watering schedule prevents the seeds from drying out.
As the grass seedlings emerge, the watering schedule must transition to encourage deeper root growth. After the first few weeks, reduce the frequency of watering while increasing the duration of each session. This allows water to soak deeper into the soil, promoting resilient, drought-tolerant turf.
The first mowing should not occur until the new grass reaches a height of three to four inches, which usually takes four to eight weeks. Use a sharp mower blade and adhere to the one-third rule, removing no more than one-third of the grass height per cutting. Foot traffic must be restricted during this initial establishment period to avoid damaging the fragile seedlings and compacting the soil.