Philodendrons belong to one of the largest genera of flowering plants, known for their remarkable resilience and diverse foliage, making them a popular choice for indoor gardeners. These tropical plants are vigorous growers that eventually require a larger container to thrive. Repotting refreshes the growing medium, provides space for root expansion, and ensures the continued health of your houseplant. Understanding the proper technique helps prevent stress and allows your philodendron to flourish.
Knowing When to Repot and Gathering Supplies
The timing for repotting is determined by observing specific signs of root congestion, rather than adhering to a strict calendar schedule. Indicators include roots emerging from the pot’s drainage holes or circling tightly around the soil surface. Water immediately running straight through the pot suggests the root mass has displaced most of the soil, preventing adequate moisture retention. Stunted growth or a slowdown in new leaf production can also signal that the plant has exhausted its current space and nutrient supply.
Once a repot is necessary, gather your materials, starting with the new container. Select a pot only one to two inches larger in diameter than the current one, as moving to a significantly bigger pot can cause the soil to remain excessively wet, which may lead to root rot. Philodendrons require an airy, well-draining potting mix that mimics their native tropical habitat. A specialized aroid mix, or standard potting soil amended with components like orchid bark, perlite, or coco coir, provides the necessary structure for root aeration and drainage. Ensure you also have clean pruning shears for root maintenance and gloves to protect your hands from sap.
Step-by-Step Repotting Procedure
The first step is to gently remove the philodendron from its current pot. If the plant is stuck, lay the pot on its side and roll it while applying light pressure to loosen the root ball. Once freed, carefully inspect the roots, removing any that are dark, mushy, or brittle, as these are signs of rot or decay. Use your fingers to gently tease out the tightly wound roots at the bottom and sides of the root ball to encourage outward growth into the new soil.
Prepare the new pot by ensuring the drainage hole is clear and adding a layer of fresh potting mix to the bottom. This initial layer adjusts the planting height so the top of the root ball sits about three-quarters to one inch below the rim. Proper height placement ensures sufficient space for watering without overflow. Next, center the philodendron in the new pot, holding it steady with one hand.
Begin filling the space around the root ball with the remaining potting mix, working the soil gently down to eliminate any large air pockets. Maintain the original soil line; avoid burying the stem deeper than it was previously, as this can invite rot at the base of the plant. Gently tap the pot a few times on a solid surface to settle the medium around the roots before watering. The goal is a firmly situated plant with a level surface of fresh soil, ready to establish itself.
Immediate Care and Handling Aerial Roots
Following the repotting procedure, the plant requires specific aftercare to minimize the effects of transplant shock. Immediately water the philodendron thoroughly until the water flows freely from the drainage holes, ensuring the entire new soil volume is saturated and the roots are properly settled. This initial deep watering is important for hydrating the root ball and the fresh medium. For the next few days, place the plant in a location that receives bright, indirect light but is shielded from intense direct sun exposure.
Philodendrons naturally produce aerial roots, specialized structures that emerge from the nodes along the stem. These roots function primarily to anchor the plant to surfaces in its native environment and absorb atmospheric moisture. When repotting, it is best to leave these aerial roots intact, as they contribute to the plant’s overall health and stability. If they are growing near the soil, you can gently guide or tuck them into the new potting mix, where they may develop into subterranean roots that improve nutrient and water uptake.
If the aerial roots are particularly long or unruly, you can trim them minimally, but avoid cutting them entirely unless they pose a structural problem. Delay applying any fertilizer for at least four to six weeks, as the fresh potting mix usually contains enough nutrients to sustain the plant during its adjustment period. The successful transition will be signaled by the resumption of active growth, typically seen as new leaves unfurling with healthy coloration.