A successful transition for your Christmas tree requires purchasing a “live” specimen, meaning the tree is either container-grown or “balled and burlapped” (B&B) with its root system intact. Unlike cut trees, these evergreens are merely dormant and must be treated as living plants to ensure their survival in the landscape. The process requires careful preparation and adherence to a strict timeline to keep the tree from breaking its natural winter dormancy while indoors and maximize its chances of establishing new roots outdoors.
Preparing the Tree for Transition
Limiting the tree’s time inside a warm home is the primary step to prevent it from breaking dormancy. A maximum of 7 to 10 days indoors is recommended, as prolonged exposure to indoor heat can stimulate premature bud growth. This new growth would be immediately damaged by cold outdoor temperatures. Placing the tree in the coolest part of the room, away from heat vents or fireplaces, helps maintain this dormant state. If you decorate, use low-heat LED lights to avoid warming the branches.
After the holiday display, the tree must undergo a period of gradual temperature transition, often called “hardening off,” before being planted outdoors. Move the tree to an unheated, sheltered location, such as a garage, enclosed porch, or cool shed, for several days. This intermediate step allows the tree to slowly adjust to the colder outdoor air, reducing the shock it will experience when exposed to freezing temperatures. During this time, continue to monitor the root ball for adequate moisture.
Ground preparation often needs to happen well before the tree comes inside, especially in regions where the soil freezes solid. Digging the planting hole in the fall or early December, before the ground is unworkable, is a practical measure to facilitate a timely planting after the holidays. The removed soil should be stored in a protected area, such as a garage, to keep it from freezing. The pre-dug hole itself can be covered with a piece of plywood and insulated with a thick layer of mulch or straw to keep the edges from collapsing.
Step-by-Step Replanting Procedure
The planting hole should be two to three times wider than the root ball, but no deeper than its height. This wide, shallow shape allows the tree’s roots to easily spread outward into the softer, uncompacted soil where they primarily develop. Planting the tree too deeply is a common error. This error can lead to the slow decline and eventual death of the tree.
When moving the tree, handle the root ball carefully and never lift the tree by its trunk, as this can separate the root mass from the tree, causing severe damage. Position the tree in the center of the hole. Ensure that the root flare—the slight widening of the trunk where it meets the roots—sits level with or slightly above the surrounding grade. This placement allows for proper gas exchange and prevents the trunk from being smothered by the soil.
If the tree is balled and burlapped, the wrappings must be removed once the tree is positioned in the hole. Cut and remove all twine, ropes, and any synthetic burlap. If the burlap is natural, fold the top portion down and away from the root ball. If a wire cage is present, cut the top ring or two and remove as much wire as possible. Backfill the hole with the native soil you set aside, avoiding soil amendments which can discourage roots from growing beyond the planting area.
Essential Care After Planting
Immediately after the tree is placed and backfilled, a thorough, deep watering is necessary to settle the soil and eliminate any air pockets around the roots. Even in cold winter weather, evergreen trees continue to lose moisture through their needles, a process called desiccation. Their roots must have access to water until the ground freezes solid. Maintaining adequate soil moisture is particularly important during the first year of establishment.
A layer of organic mulch must be applied over the planting area to help regulate soil temperature and conserve moisture. Spread a 2 to 4-inch layer of mulch, such as shredded bark or wood chips, across the entire diameter of the planting hole. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the tree’s trunk. This prevents moisture buildup that could lead to bark rot.
Newly planted evergreens may need protection from the harsh winter environment and local wildlife. Constructing a simple burlap screen on the south or southwest side of the tree can shield it from intense winter sun and drying winds, which can cause sunscald or desiccation. If deer or rabbits are present, a temporary wire cage or tree wrap around the trunk can prevent them from feeding on the bark or branches during the cold months.