Lifting tulip bulbs is a method gardeners use to ensure strong, reliable blooms annually. Although tulips are perennials, hybridizing has reduced the ability of many popular varieties to rebloom vigorously if left in the ground. This process of lifting the bulbs after the spring display is particularly beneficial in regions with warm, wet summers, which can cause the bulbs to rot. It also addresses overcrowding, where offsets compete for limited nutrients, resulting in fewer and smaller flowers in subsequent seasons.
Knowing When to Lift the Bulbs
The timing for lifting tulip bulbs is determined by the state of the foliage, not the calendar date. Wait until the leaves have completely withered, turned yellow or brown, and are easily pulled away. This natural dieback process is essential because the leaves continue to photosynthesize after the flower fades, storing energy within the bulb for the next year’s growth.
Removing the bulbs too early interrupts this critical storage phase, leaving the bulb depleted of the energy reserves needed to form a healthy flower bud. This period typically takes four to six weeks following the bloom, occurring in late spring or early summer.
The Process of Digging and Dividing
Once the foliage has fully died back, begin the gentle process of removing the bulbs from the soil. Use a garden fork, rather than a trowel, and insert it several inches away from the stem to avoid spearing the bulb. Carefully loosen the soil in a wide circle before lifting the entire clump.
Gently brush away excess soil, taking care not to wash them with water, which encourages rot. Tulip bulbs often create smaller, immature offsets clustered around the main bulb. Separate these offsets by hand. Only the largest, firmest bulbs should be kept for replanting, as tiny offsets are unlikely to flower the following spring.
Proper Curing and Storage
Prepare the newly lifted bulbs for their summer rest by curing them first. Spread the cleaned bulbs in a single layer in a dry, dark, and well-ventilated area, such as a garage or shed. Allow them to dry for one to two weeks until the outer skin, or tunic, feels papery and dry. This drying process is important to prevent fungal diseases and rot during storage.
After curing, place the bulbs in a container that allows for continuous air circulation, such as a mesh bag, a paper bag, or a cardboard box. Avoid sealed plastic bags, which trap moisture and promote decay. Store the bulbs in a cool, dark, and dry environment, ideally with a temperature between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, throughout the summer dormancy period. Check the stored bulbs periodically and discard any that show signs of softness or mold.
Replanting for Next Spring’s Bloom
Replanting the stored bulbs occurs in the late fall, typically when nighttime temperatures consistently drop into the 40 to 50-degree Fahrenheit range. Planting at this time ensures the bulbs experience the necessary cold period, or chilling, required to trigger flowering. The planting site should offer well-draining soil and receive full sun during the spring.
Dig a hole two to three times the height of the bulb deep. Place the bulb in the hole with the pointed end facing upward, which is where the shoot will emerge. Space the bulbs three to six inches apart to allow for proper air circulation and growth. Cover the bulbs with soil, tamp down lightly, and water thoroughly to settle the soil and initiate root growth before the ground freezes.