Strawberry plants naturally possess a highly effective method of multiplying themselves through specialized stems known as stolons, commonly called runners. This process is a form of asexual reproduction, resulting in genetically identical clone plants that can be used to expand a strawberry patch without purchasing new stock. A runner is a long, leafless stem that extends horizontally from the parent plant, developing small plantlets, or nodes, at intervals along its length. These nodes are predisposed to grow adventitious roots when they make contact with soil. Propagating new plants from these runners is a straightforward technique that allows gardeners to refresh and expand their plantings.
Selecting the Right Runners
The optimal period for propagating new strawberry plants from runners occurs in late summer or early fall, typically August through September, after the main fruiting season has concluded. This timing ensures the new plantlets have sufficient time to establish a strong root system before winter dormancy begins. Look for runners that have developed strong, visible nodes featuring tiny leaves and small root nubs, indicating the plantlet is mature and ready to root. Selecting high-quality source material is important; avoid using runners from parent plants showing signs of disease, low vigor, or poor fruit production. Focus propagation efforts on runners from younger, vigorous mother plants, as productivity naturally declines after three to four years.
Methods for Rooting New Plants
Rooting While Attached
The most successful method for rooting new strawberry plants involves keeping the plantlet attached to the mother plant while it establishes roots. This technique ensures a continuous supply of water and nutrients from the established parent plant, significantly increasing the survival rate. Fill a small, two-to-three-inch pot with a well-draining potting mixture and sink the pot into the soil near the runner node. Gently press the plantlet node onto the surface of the small pot, ensuring firm contact with the potting medium. Secure the node firmly in place using a bent paperclip or a U-shaped piece of wire, and keep the soil consistently moist for four to six weeks while the root system develops.
Detaching Before Rooting
An alternative method, used when space constraints prevent the first technique, involves detaching the plantlet before rooting. The runner is snipped from the mother plant and the node is placed in a small seed tray filled with moist potting mix or temporarily in a glass of water. This method is less reliable because the plantlet is immediately cut off from its nutrient supply. However, it can still produce viable plants if the environment remains humid and the rooting medium is kept moist. Roots should begin to form within a few weeks, regardless of the method chosen.
Moving Rooted Runners to Their Final Spot
The newly rooted plantlet is ready for separation when it exhibits signs of independence, typically displaying three to four true leaves and a firm root ball that resists a gentle tug. This rooting process usually takes between four and six weeks from the time the node was pinned down. Once the plantlet is adequately established, use clean, sharp shears to sever the stolon connecting the new plant to the mother plant, cutting as close to the parent as possible. Prepare the new planting location by loosening the soil and incorporating organic matter to ensure good drainage. When transplanting, the crown must be set level with the soil surface; burying it causes rot, and setting it too high causes the roots to dry out. Space the new plants approximately 12 to 18 inches apart to allow for future growth and air circulation.
Caring for Newly Established Plants
The period immediately following transplanting requires focused attention to moisture levels. Immediately water the plant deeply to settle the soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets. Maintaining consistent soil moisture is necessary for the first few weeks as the root system adapts to its new environment. Strawberry plants require full sun exposure, meaning at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily, for optimal growth. Avoid applying high-nitrogen fertilizers at this stage, as this encourages excessive leafy growth instead of root development. Before freezing temperatures begin, apply a layer of straw or other insulating mulch around the plants to provide protection during their first winter.