Moving an established tree is a delicate process requiring careful planning. Success hinges on minimizing disruption to the root system for rapid establishment in its new environment. Proper technique and aftercare help the tree overcome relocation stress.
Selecting the Best Time and Preparing the Tree
The optimal time for transplanting is during the tree’s dormant season, typically from late fall after leaf drop through early spring before bud break. Moving the tree when metabolic activities are slowed minimizes the shock of root loss. Cooler temperatures and increased soil moisture provide ideal conditions for root establishment.
Preparation can begin months in advance with root pruning. Cutting the roots with a sharp spade around the planned root ball perimeter encourages a dense network of new, fine feeder roots closer to the trunk. This increases the number of roots preserved within the final root ball, improving survival. Structural pruning of the canopy should also be done during dormancy to reduce the foliage the diminished root system must support after the move.
Readying the destination site involves digging the planting hole beforehand, ensuring the transplant is not delayed. Assessing the new site’s soil drainage and overall conditions addresses potential issues before planting. Watering the tree deeply a few days before excavation is helpful, as a well-hydrated root ball is more stable and less prone to crumbling.
Excavating and Protecting the Root Ball
The size of the root ball is a direct factor in the tree’s survival, as a tree can lose up to 90% of its root system during transplanting. The root ball diameter should be at least 10 to 12 inches for every one inch of the trunk caliper. For example, a three-inch caliper tree requires a root ball between 30 and 36 inches wide to capture sufficient feeder roots.
Excavation should be performed meticulously, using a sharp spade to make clean cuts around the perimeter of the determined root ball size. Cleanly severing the roots promotes new, healthy root growth. Once undercut, the entire soil mass must be secured to prevent it from cracking or falling apart during transport.
The root ball is typically wrapped tightly in burlap, often with a wire basket for structural support, particularly for larger specimens. This wrapping secures the soil and protects the roots from drying out or sustaining mechanical damage. Keeping the root ball intact is essential because a loose or damaged ball means further loss of the compromised root system.
Planting the Tree in the New Location
The planting hole must be prepared with specific dimensions to encourage lateral root growth into the surrounding native soil. The hole should be dug two to three times wider than the root ball diameter, but no deeper than the height of the root ball itself. This wider, shallower design is important because most tree roots grow outwards near the surface, where oxygen is more abundant.
Identifying the root flare, the point where the trunk widens just above the roots, is necessary. The root flare must be positioned at or slightly above the final grade of the surrounding soil. Planting the tree too deeply is a common error that can suffocate the roots and lead to long-term decline.
Once the tree is positioned correctly, remove any twine or non-biodegradable burlap from the top half of the root ball, and cut away the top portion of any wire basket. Backfill the hole using the native soil, avoiding soil amendments which can discourage roots from growing into the adjacent landscape. Gently firm the soil to remove large air pockets, and apply a final deep watering to settle the soil around the roots.
Essential Care During Establishment
Post-planting care focuses on managing the tree’s water stress as it recovers from the loss of feeder roots. Deep, infrequent watering is the most effective method, encouraging roots to grow downward and outward in search of moisture. The soil over the root ball and surrounding area should be kept consistently moist, not saturated, requiring up to one to two inches per week depending on conditions.
Applying a three to four-inch layer of organic mulch around the tree helps retain soil moisture, moderate soil temperature, and suppress competing weeds. Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk and root flare to prevent moisture buildup that can lead to rot and pest problems. Fertilization is avoided immediately after planting, as damaged roots cannot utilize the nutrients, and fertilizer salts can dehydrate the remaining root system.
Newly planted trees should be monitored for signs of transplant shock, such as wilting, premature leaf drop, or discoloration. While staking may be necessary on windy sites or for trees with poor root systems, it should allow for trunk movement to encourage strength development. Staking materials must be removed within one or two years to prevent the ties from girdling the trunk.