A clover lawn is a ground cover composed primarily or entirely of clover, offering a low-maintenance, ecologically supportive alternative to conventional turfgrass. Homeowners are increasingly seeking this replacement due to the environmental and financial costs associated with the traditional green carpet aesthetic. This shift is driven by a desire for a more sustainable landscape that requires fewer resources and less intensive management than a manicured grass lawn.
Why Clover is a Preferred Lawn Alternative
Clover is a legume that engages in a symbiotic relationship with soil bacteria, allowing it to convert nitrogen from the air into a usable form within the soil (nitrogen fixation). This natural process acts as a continuous, self-supplied fertilizer, greatly reducing or eliminating the need for synthetic nitrogen applications.
Clover possesses a deep root system, contributing to superior drought tolerance compared to many common turfgrasses. This structure allows the clover to access moisture deeper underground, helping it remain lush and green during dry periods. Clover foliage is also resistant to the browning that often results from pet urine, maintaining a uniform appearance across the yard.
Selecting the Right Clover and Timing
Micro-clover, a dwarf form of White Dutch Clover, is popular for its smaller leaves and lower growth habit, typically maturing at four to six inches. It is preferred for a more manicured look and is less aggressive than traditional varieties.
White Dutch Clover, or Trifolium repens, is the more traditional choice, growing taller and producing more frequent white flowers, which are beneficial for pollinators. Red Clover, Trifolium pratense, is less suitable for a lawn as it grows significantly taller, often up to two feet, and is generally better utilized as a cover crop or forage.
The ideal time for planting clover is during early spring or late summer to early fall. Seeding in early spring allows the clover to establish itself before summer heat arrives. Planting in the late summer or early fall, at least 45 to 60 days before the first hard frost, capitalizes on cooler temperatures and reliable rainfall for strong root development.
Step-by-Step Guide to Lawn Conversion
The conversion process begins with preparing the existing lawn to ensure maximum seed-to-soil contact. Start by mowing the current turfgrass down to the lowest setting on your mower, essentially scalping the lawn. This reduction in height lessens the competition the new clover seedlings will face for sunlight and moisture.
For a complete clover lawn, the existing grass must be eliminated. Solarization is an effective, chemical-free method involving covering the mowed area with clear plastic sheeting for four to eight weeks during the hottest part of the year to kill the underlying turf and weed seeds. For a more gradual transition, rake the area aggressively to remove thatch and expose the soil before overseeding. Aerating the soil with a core aerator before seeding can further improve conditions by relieving compaction and creating small pockets for seeds to settle.
Once the soil surface is prepared, broadcast the clover seed, aiming for an even distribution. The typical seeding rate for establishing a pure clover lawn is approximately two to three ounces of seed per 1,000 square feet. It is helpful to mix the tiny clover seeds with a carrier like sand or sawdust to ensure a uniform spread during application. After broadcasting, lightly rake the seed into the top one-eighth inch of soil, or use a lawn roller to press the seed firmly into the ground to secure good seed-to-soil contact.
The initial watering phase is the most sensitive part of the establishment process. Immediately after seeding, water the area thoroughly but gently to avoid washing the seeds away. For the next two to three weeks, or until the seedlings are visibly established, the soil surface must be kept consistently moist. This usually requires light misting or watering multiple times a day to prevent the tiny seeds from drying out during germination.
Post-Planting Care and Management
Once the clover seedlings have emerged, the long-term care routine is significantly less demanding than for a traditional lawn. An established clover lawn requires minimal mowing, as most varieties only grow to a height of four to eight inches. If a tidier appearance is desired, mowing to about three inches once a month is usually sufficient to discourage excessive flowering and maintain a dense canopy.
Since clover naturally fixes nitrogen, established clover lawns do not require any nitrogen-based fertilizers. Applying such fertilizers would only encourage any remaining grass or opportunistic weeds to out-compete the clover. The dense growth habit of clover naturally suppresses many broadleaf weeds, but any stubborn invaders should be removed by hand, as most chemical herbicides designed for turfgrass will also kill clover.
For established clover, the watering regimen changes dramatically from the initial germination phase. The deep root system allows the plant to thrive on deep, infrequent watering, only requiring supplemental irrigation during extended periods of drought. Watering deeply encourages the roots to grow further down, strengthening the clover’s resilience and reducing its water needs.