The decision to replace a traditional turf lawn with ground cover represents a shift toward a more sustainable landscape model. Ground covers are generally defined as low-growing plants that spread horizontally and create a dense mat of foliage over the soil surface. This transition is driven by the desire to conserve water, since conventional lawns require substantial irrigation, particularly in warmer climates. Beyond reducing water consumption, ground covers significantly lower maintenance needs, requiring less frequent mowing, fertilizing, and pest control. Replacing a monoculture lawn with diverse plantings also supports local ecosystems by enhancing biodiversity, providing food and shelter for pollinators and beneficial insects.
Assessing the Site and Selecting Ground Cover
The planning phase involves a detailed analysis of existing site conditions to ensure the new plants will thrive. An accurate assessment of sun exposure and shade patterns is necessary, tracking how many hours of direct sunlight the area receives. Matching the ground cover’s light requirements to the site’s conditions is paramount for successful establishment.
Soil analysis is equally important, focusing on texture, pH level, and drainage capabilities. To check drainage, a test can be performed by digging a 12-inch-deep hole, filling it with water, and timing how long the water takes to drain after the second filling. A healthy drainage rate is typically around one inch per hour, while a slower rate indicates a need for soil improvement to prevent root rot.
Plant selection should reflect these environmental factors, choosing species that naturally tolerate the site’s sun, soil, and moisture levels. Consider plants with different growth habits, such as carpeting types that spread quickly for full coverage, or clumping varieties for a more segmented look. The intended function of the area also influences the choice; for instance, high-traffic areas require tough, low-growing varieties that can handle compression.
Choosing native plants is often advantageous because they are already adapted to local conditions and generally require less water once established. When selecting non-native options, group plants with similar water requirements to maximize irrigation efficiency. Finally, consider the plant’s mature spread to accurately calculate the number of plants needed for the desired coverage.
Executing Grass Removal Techniques
Eliminating the existing turf is often the most labor-intensive step, and several methods can be employed depending on the project’s scale and timeline. One popular organic technique is sheet mulching, sometimes called lasagna layering, which smothers the grass by depriving it of sunlight. This method begins by mowing the grass low and thoroughly watering the area to aid decomposition.
A suppression layer, such as cardboard or 10 to 15 layers of newspaper, is laid over the area, ensuring edges overlap by at least six inches to block light completely. Wetting the material helps it stay in place and initiates breakdown. This barrier is then topped with several inches of compost and organic mulch.
The lack of light stops photosynthesis, causing the turf to die back, while microorganisms break down the layers, enriching the soil below. Sheet mulching is an inexpensive method that improves soil structure, but it requires patience, as the area must sit for six to eight weeks before planting.
A second effective, non-chemical method is solarization, which utilizes the sun’s energy to kill existing vegetation and weed seeds. This process involves mowing the grass short, watering the plot deeply, and then covering the entire area with a clear polyethylene plastic tarp. The clear plastic creates a greenhouse effect, trapping heat and raising the soil temperature high enough to kill many weed seeds and pathogens.
The edges of the plastic must be secured tightly with soil or weights to trap the heat effectively. The process typically takes four to six weeks during the hottest part of the year. While solarization is excellent for sterilizing the top layer of soil, it may not be suitable for shaded areas where high temperatures cannot be reached.
Manual removal with a sod cutter or shovel is the fastest option, but it is the most labor-intensive and results in the loss of valuable topsoil. Chemical removal is also an option, but it requires careful application and consideration of the environmental impact, and it is generally avoided in favor of organic methods.
Regardless of the removal technique used, the soil must be prepared for new plantings by loosening it to a depth of about 12 inches. Incorporating a layer of organic matter, such as compost or manure, at a rate of roughly 25% by volume, will help improve the soil’s tilth and nutrient profile for the new ground cover.
Planting and Establishing the New Cover
Once the turf is eliminated and the soil amended, installation of the new ground cover can begin. Proper plant spacing determines how quickly the area achieves a dense, weed-suppressing carpet. Use the plant’s mature width as a guide for how far apart to set each specimen.
Planting at the closer end of the recommended spacing range results in faster coverage. Conversely, planting too closely causes plants to compete for resources, leading to stress. Before placing the plants, dig holes two to three times wider than the rootball but no deeper than its height.
Gently loosen any tightly coiled roots before setting the plant into the hole to encourage outward growth into the native soil. After planting, the new ground cover requires thorough, deep watering to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets around the roots. A consistent watering schedule is necessary until the plants are fully established and have begun to spread.
To minimize new weed growth and conserve soil moisture during the establishment period, apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of each new plant. A two-inch layer of mulch is sufficient to suppress weeds while also helping to regulate the soil temperature.