Artificial turf, often referred to as synthetic grass, offers a durable, low-maintenance alternative to a natural lawn. This material provides significant benefits, primarily through substantial water savings, especially in drought-prone regions where conservation is a priority. Replacing a natural lawn with turf involves several distinct phases, from initial site preparation to the final securing and infill application. This guide details the necessary steps for a successful do-it-yourself turf replacement project.
Pre-Installation Planning and Material Selection
The project begins with selecting the appropriate synthetic material. Turf is manufactured with varying pile heights (typically 1.25 to 2.5 inches) and different face weights, which indicate the density of the fibers per square yard. A higher face weight results in a more resilient and natural-looking surface that can withstand heavier foot traffic.
Drainage requirements are also important, differentiating between perforated and non-perforated backings. Perforated turf allows water to pass directly through small holes in the backing material, facilitating rapid runoff into the prepared sub-base below. The color and fiber shape should be evaluated to ensure the turf aesthetically matches the surrounding landscape and maintains a realistic appearance.
Accurately measuring the installation area determines the necessary material quantity; add a waste allowance of 10 to 15 percent to the total square footage. Gather the necessary specialized equipment and materials:
- A plate compactor
- A sod cutter
- A utility knife
- Road base, infill, and securing spikes
Removing Existing Grass and Preparing the Sub-Base
Removing the existing organic material is the foundational step, as poor preparation can lead to drainage issues and an unstable surface. A specialized sod cutter is the most efficient method for stripping the existing grass and soil layer in large, continuous sections. Alternatively, vegetation can be killed using a non-selective herbicide followed by covering the area with a dark tarp for several weeks, allowing for easier manual removal before excavation.
The area must be excavated to a depth of approximately three to four inches to accommodate the subsequent base layers. This depth ensures that once the new turf is installed, the final grade will be level with or slightly below surrounding hardscapes, preventing trip hazards. Proper grading of the exposed sub-soil is necessary to ensure water moves away from any structures, ideally sloping at a minimum of one to two percent.
Once the soil is graded, a permeable weed barrier fabric should be laid down across the entire area. This prevents future organic growth from penetrating the base layers and helps maintain the separation and integrity of the sub-base materials. The base material, typically crushed aggregate like decomposed granite or a specific road base mixture, is then spread in uniform lifts across the area.
The aggregate base must be spread and leveled in lifts, usually no thicker than two inches at a time, to ensure uniform compaction throughout the profile. This material is designed to create a porous yet stable foundation that supports the turf and facilitates rapid vertical drainage into the underlying soil. Achieving the correct thickness across the entire area is necessary for a smooth, ripple-free finished surface.
Compaction of the base material requires the use of a heavy plate compactor. The aggregate is lightly watered before rolling, which helps the crushed particles interlock and settle into a dense layer through mechanical action. The goal is to achieve a compaction density of 90 to 95 percent, creating a hard, pavement-like surface that will not shift or settle under load over time.
Step-by-Step Turf Installation
Once the base is fully compacted, bring the turf rolls onto the area for unrolling and positioning. Unroll all material in the same direction, ensuring the “grain” of the synthetic blades faces the primary viewing point to maximize realism and minimize light reflection. Allowing the material to rest unrolled for several hours, a process known as “acclimation,” helps to remove any wrinkles or creases from storage.
When multiple pieces of turf are required, position them carefully to minimize the visibility of the seams across the finished lawn. Initially, overlap the rolls. Use a sharp utility knife to precisely trim the edges of the turf backing, removing the factory stitching. This trimming ensures that when the pieces are abutted, the synthetic grass blades touch without any noticeable gap or overlap in the heavy backing material.
Joining adjacent sections involves laying specialized seam tape, a non-woven fabric, beneath the abutted edges. Apply a strong, two-part polyurethane adhesive uniformly to the surface of the tape using a notched trowel, creating the necessary chemical bond. Carefully press the edges of the turf down onto the wet adhesive, ensuring full contact across the entire seam length before the adhesive cures.
Precision cutting around obstacles and hardscapes requires careful measurement and deliberate cuts from the back of the material. The goal is to leave a small gap, typically about a quarter of an inch, between the turf edge and any border material, allowing for a slight material expansion and contraction.
Once the turf is shaped and all seams are glued, the perimeter must be secured to the compacted base layer to prevent lifting and shifting. Galvanized, non-corrosive spikes or landscape staples, ideally six to eight inches in length, are driven through the turf backing and into the stable aggregate base below. Place these securing implements every six to eight inches along the entire perimeter, and also along the length of any seams, supplementing the adhesive bond. The spikes are driven deep enough so their heads sink just below the level of the synthetic fibers, making them invisible.
Finalizing the Installation and Ongoing Care
The final stage involves applying the infill material, which is necessary for the turf’s long-term stability and performance. Infill, commonly composed of silica sand, acrylic-coated sand, or specialized crumb rubber, provides necessary weight to prevent the turf from shifting and helps keep the synthetic blades standing upright. It also offers a degree of protection to the turf backing from degradation caused by prolonged ultraviolet light exposure.
Spread the infill material evenly across the surface using a drop spreader, ensuring a uniform application rate based on the manufacturer’s recommendation. Immediately following application, use a power broom or a stiff-bristled push broom to work the granular infill down into the base of the fibers. This action helps to fully settle the material, lifts the grass blades, and enhances the natural appearance and cushioning of the surface.
Routine maintenance involves periodic cleaning to remove surface debris and maintain drainage capacity. Hosing down the turf washes away accumulated dust and pollen. Address pet waste promptly by rinsing the area thoroughly to prevent odor buildup. Flattened areas can be rejuvenated by brushing the fibers against the natural grain, which restores the loft and original texture.