A small stump is generally defined as one under 12 inches in diameter, making it suitable for removal with hand tools and basic home methods. Before beginning any removal process, contact the national 811 number to ensure no underground utilities are present near the work area. Safety requires sturdy protective gear like heavy gloves, safety glasses, and steel-toed boots to guard against splinters and falling debris. Assessing the stump’s location and surrounding area determines the most appropriate removal technique.
The Manual Method: Digging and Chopping
Manual removal is a direct, labor-intensive method where a small stump is physically excavated from the soil. The process requires tools such as a sharp shovel, a mattock, a root saw, and a long steel crowbar for leverage. Begin by digging a trench around the stump’s perimeter, clearing the soil to expose the lateral root system.
The mattock’s broad end helps break up the soil, while the pick end chops through thinner roots. As the anchor roots are uncovered, use a root saw or an axe to sever these thick, stabilizing structures several inches away from the stump base. Once the lateral roots are cut, a crowbar can be inserted under the stump’s edge to act as a fulcrum. Applying downward pressure generates significant upward force, breaking the remaining taproot and lifting the stump from the ground.
Accelerating Decomposition with Chemicals
Chemical decomposition offers a less physically demanding alternative, relying on chemical agents to soften the wood fiber over time. This method starts by drilling a series of deep holes across the top surface of the stump, using a bit up to one inch in diameter. These holes should be spaced approximately three to four inches apart and extend eight to twelve inches deep to maximize chemical penetration.
Commercial stump removers, which often contain potassium nitrate, are poured into these holes and saturated with water. Potassium nitrate acts as an oxidizer, accelerating the rate at which wood-rotting fungi and bacteria break down the cellulose structure. Alternatively, high-nitrogen fertilizers or Epsom salts achieve a similar, though slower, result by feeding decomposition microbes or drawing moisture out of the wood cells. The stump must be kept consistently moist and covered for several months to a year while the decay process weakens the wood, allowing it to be broken apart with a shovel.
The Controlled Burning Technique
Controlled burning is an effective way to remove a stump completely, but it requires strict adherence to local fire ordinances and safety protocols. The process begins by drilling deep holes into the stump, which are then filled with a slow-burning fuel like kerosene to saturate the wood fibers. Before ignition, check with local fire authorities for any permits or seasonal burn bans, as regulations vary widely.
A fire suppression tool, such as a garden hose or a fire extinguisher, must be kept immediately accessible throughout the entire process. Once the wood is saturated and local regulations are satisfied, a small fire is built directly on top of or around the stump to ignite the treated wood. The fire must be monitored constantly and kept at a safe distance from all structures and flammable materials, often requiring a clearance of 15 to 50 feet depending on local codes. The stump will smolder for many hours, sometimes days, until the wood is reduced to ash, allowing for easy cleanup of the remaining residue.
Post-Removal Steps and Cleanup
Once the stump is fully removed, a cavity will remain in the soil that requires immediate attention to prevent future sinkholes or hazards. The resulting hole should be filled in layers, using a mixture of topsoil, sand, and organic compost. Each layer needs to be thoroughly compacted to minimize settling, which can occur as the remaining, buried roots continue to decompose.
Any exposed lateral roots should be cut back and treated with a high-salt solution or a vinegar mixture to deter potential regrowth. Certain tree species, like maple and elm, are prone to sending up new sprouts, which must be immediately cut back to exhaust the root system’s stored energy reserves. After leveling the surface, the area is ready for repair, typically involving seeding new grass or laying sod to integrate the spot back into the surrounding landscape.