Ground-covering ivy, such as English Ivy (Hedera helix), is an aggressive, invasive vine that presents a significant challenge to gardens and natural areas. It spreads rapidly, forming dense mats that suffocate native ground covers and block sunlight, preventing new plants from germinating. When ivy climbs structures, it can damage mortar or siding. When it ascends trees, it adds weight, increases wind resistance, and inhibits photosynthesis, often leading to the tree’s decline or death. Successfully removing this plant is an intensive, multi-step process requiring patience and a combination of physical and chemical methods to ensure the root system is fully eradicated.
Manual Removal Techniques
The removal process begins with physical labor, targeting the surface runners and shallow root mats. Wear protective gear, including durable gloves and long sleeves, as English Ivy sap can cause skin irritation. Working after a recent rain is helpful, as moist soil makes it easier to dislodge the shallow roots.
Start by defining a manageable work area, such as a four-foot strip, and use shears or a shovel to cut the mat’s perimeter. A sturdy digging fork is effective for getting underneath the dense mat of vines and roots. Gently levering the fork loosens the soil and lifts the ivy, often allowing you to roll up large sections of the vine and surface roots like a carpet.
For deep or stubborn sections, use a hand trowel or a small mattock to dig into the soil and pull out the horizontal root runners. Remove as much root material as possible, since ivy can re-sprout from small fragments left behind. This initial physical removal clears the visible mass and reduces the plant’s immediate energy-producing capacity.
Applying Systemic Chemical Treatment
For large or persistent infestations, a targeted chemical approach using systemic herbicides is highly effective, but requires careful application. Herbicides containing glyphosate or triclopyr are recommended because they are absorbed by the plant and translocated down to the roots, killing the entire organism.
The waxy coating on mature ivy leaves makes foliar spraying inefficient, so application must maximize absorption. The most effective time for spraying is when new growth appears in the spring, as young leaves lack the thick waxy cuticle. Late fall is also effective when the plant is moving carbohydrates to its root system for storage.
When spraying, add a non-ionic surfactant to a 2 to 5% herbicide solution to help the chemical adhere to and penetrate the leaf surface. A more potent method involves cutting the main stems or root crowns and immediately painting the concentrated herbicide solution onto the fresh cut. This direct application ensures the chemical is transported straight to the root crown, minimizing the risk of drift to desirable plants.
Eliminating Deep Root Systems
The most challenging part of ivy removal is dealing with the persistent root crowns and deep rhizomes that remain after the surface mat is gone, as these are the primary source of future regrowth. One non-chemical strategy for eliminating these reserves is solarization, which involves covering the cleared area with thick, black plastic sheeting. This process deprives the remaining roots of sunlight and water while using solar heat to “cook” the plant material beneath the soil surface.
This smothering technique must be maintained for six months up to a year to completely deplete the established root system’s energy reserves. For large, woody root crowns that cannot be dug out, paint a highly concentrated glyphosate solution directly onto the freshly severed stump.
This application must be done within minutes of the cut to ensure the herbicide is absorbed before the plant seals the wound. Repeatedly cutting back any new shoots that emerge will also gradually starve the deep root system by forcing it to use stored energy without the ability to photosynthesize.
Long-Term Prevention
Once the main ivy mass and root systems have been addressed, the focus shifts to preventing recurrence. Proper disposal of the removed plant material is paramount, as ivy can re-root from cut stem pieces. The pulled vines should be piled onto a tarp in a sunny, dry location to desiccate thoroughly, or sealed inside black plastic bags to be “cooked” by the sun until non-viable.
Regular monitoring of the cleared area is necessary, and any new sprouts must be pulled immediately. Installing a physical root barrier, such as a deep layer of mulch, cardboard, or landscape fabric, can help suppress latent growth and block light. Replacing the invasive ivy with a dense, non-invasive ground cover, particularly native species, will occupy the cleared space and help outcompete future ivy seedlings.