Removing a hedge can transform a landscape, but the remaining root mass presents a significant obstacle to new planting or construction. Extensive root systems can prevent new growth, and certain species may regrow from the stump if not completely removed. Successfully clearing the area requires eliminating the root structure entirely, which can be accomplished through manual labor or strategic application of chemical and biological processes. This article explores methods for achieving complete hedge root eradication.
Preparing the Site and Initial Root Exposure
Before beginning any root removal process, proper safety measures must be in place, including wearing sturdy work gloves and eye protection. The first step involves cutting the main trunk or stump as close to the soil line as possible, ideally leaving only a few inches of wood above the ground. Using a chainsaw or a heavy-duty pruning saw creates a clear, manageable surface for later treatment or leverage.
The next step involves clearing the soil immediately surrounding the remaining root crown. Dig a shallow trench approximately one foot wide around the perimeter of the stump to expose the larger lateral roots. This trench should extend about a foot deep to reveal the anchor roots. Clearing this soil allows access to the major root structures for severing or treating, which is necessary for both manual and chemical approaches.
The Manual Excavation Method
Manual excavation involves systematically separating the root mass from the surrounding soil using leverage and cutting tools. Once the trench is established, sever the exposed lateral roots to free the central stump. A mattock or a grub hoe is effective for chopping through thicker roots with downward force. For roots up to two inches in diameter, loppers or a sharp machete can be used to make clean cuts.
As roots are severed, continue digging deeper around the root ball to undermine the entire structure, often requiring the removal of soil from underneath. Periodically rock the stump using a shovel or a pry bar inserted beneath the root ball to check for remaining anchor points and loosen the soil. This rocking motion helps break the smaller tertiary roots that still bind the stump to the earth.
For large root crowns, loop a chain or heavy rope around the exposed stump for increased leverage. Pushing and pulling the stump in multiple directions helps expose the final taproots that require cutting. Once the majority of the roots are cut and the mass is loose, the entire stump can be rolled or pulled out of the ground. Backfill the remaining hole with fresh soil after ensuring no significant root pieces are left to sprout.
Accelerating Decomposition
A passive method involves accelerating the natural decay process of the remaining stump and roots. Begin by drilling multiple deep holes, typically 8 to 12 inches deep, into the top of the root crown and along any major exposed roots. These holes should be about one inch in diameter to hold the decomposition agent.
High-nitrogen sources, such as granular fertilizer (urea) or well-rotted manure, are placed directly into these drilled cavities. Nitrogen acts as a food source for the microorganisms and fungi responsible for breaking down the wood’s cellulose and lignin. Adding water helps dissolve the fertilizer and carries the nitrogen deeper into the woody tissue.
Covering the stump with a tarp or plastic sheeting maintains consistent moisture and warmth, encouraging microbial activity. While some methods suggest using Epsom salts, high concentrations of any salt can inhibit the microbial action needed for decomposition. This passive process requires patience, with full decay and softening of the root mass often taking six months to a year or more.
Chemical Root Eradication
Chemical eradication offers a faster alternative for killing the root system and preventing regrowth, but it requires careful and precise application. The most effective method is the cut-stump treatment, which involves applying a concentrated herbicide directly to the freshly cut surface of the root crown. Active ingredients commonly used include Glyphosate or Triclopyr.
For maximum absorption, the chemical should be painted or sprayed onto the vascular tissue, or cambium layer, immediately after the cut is made, ideally within 15 seconds for water-based solutions. This quick application allows the herbicide to be drawn down through the plant’s system and into the roots before the cut surface seals over. Alternatively, holes can be drilled into the stump and filled with the concentrated solution, providing a direct route to the core wood.
Use a high-concentration product, such as a 20% Glyphosate solution, specifically formulated for stump killing rather than a ready-to-use garden spray. Care must be taken to prevent runoff, as these chemicals can injure or kill nearby desirable plants if they leach into the soil and reach their roots. Always follow the product label’s instructions regarding safety gear and environmental precautions to avoid unintended exposure.